Spring Ready-to-Wear 2015

Yves Saint Laurent

View Slideshow

Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015

Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015

View Slideshow

  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015
  • Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015

Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2015

What is fashion? Several seasons into it, that question again swirled around the exiting throng at Hedi Slimane’s fashion show for Saint Laurent.

What is fashion? Several seasons into it, that question again swirled around the exiting throng at Hedi Slimane’s fashion show for Saint Laurent.


Moodwise: cute, young, rock ’n’ roll, a little vulgar, with arch, sky-high platforms that felt dated beyond the presentation’s obvious, intended retro. Clotheswise, an unmistakable merch message: jacket; short, flirty dress or skirt; and for those who dare, short shorts — and a girl’s good to go. Good to go in what were, piece-by-piece, some appealing clothes.


Slimane’s item of the season is a short jacket. Based on two classics — the jeans and motorcycle jacket — it came in a multitude of versions: black leather, green leather, patchwork suede, snake, band-leader red. Ditto his saucy, full-skirted dresses. They came printed with cherries, stars and flowers, and in numerous takes on the LBD. Some charmed; some telegraphed, “Hello, Mr. West Side Highway.”


They didn’t telegraph luxury (though the tailoring and embroideries in particular looked well-made), at least not in the traditional sense. These were kids’ clothes luxed up for the designer customer. Nor did they show any sense of Slimane’s perspective as a designer beyond his continuing literal embrace of retro motifs. And, if the returns from his brief tenure at the house run constant, it will all sell like mad.

 

So back to the question: What is fashion, fashion at the designer level, runway-worthy fashion? Is it the clothes themselves? Should designers at the highest reaches of ready-to-wear do more than retread? Do they have a responsibility to do more? Or is fashion now about the aura surrounding a designer and/or brand, with the clothes beside the point? After the show, the Saint Laurent p.r. office e-mailed show notes to some editors. It covered invitation artwork (Robert Heinecken); music (an irritating original ditty by Aleide); hair and makeup (Didier Malige and Aaron De Mey) and set design and styling (Hedi Slimane). Typically when a brand bothers with show notes, there’s something included about the clothes — the inspiration, the mood, something. Not this time. 

 

View Slideshow
load comments

ADD A COMMENT

Sign in using your Facebook or Twitter account, or simply type your comment below as a guest by entering your email and name. Your email address will not be shared. Please note that WWD reserves the right to remove profane, distasteful or otherwise inappropriate language.

WWDirectory

#

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

I

J

K

L

M

N

O

P

Q

R

S

T

U

V

W

X

Y

Z

#

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

I

J

K

L

M

N

O

P

Q

R

S

T

U

V

W

X

Y

Z

#

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

I

J

K

L

M

N

O

P

Q

R

S

T

U

V

W

X

Y

Z

News from WWD
Newsletters

Sign upSign up for WWD and FN newsletters to receive daily headlines, breaking news alerts and weekly industry wrap-ups.

LatestPublications
getIsArchiveOnly= hasAccess=false hasArchiveAccess=false