Giorgio Armani RTW Spring 2012
“The idea,” Giorgio Armani said before his show on Monday, “is taking all the colors from the pearl. Everything is a play on light; the shiny effect comes and goes.”
The lovely lyricism of the collection stayed constant. Armani looked at the pearl in all of its incarnations. Thus, the palette ran from not-quite-whites and pale grays to blues, jade and subtle golden hues. And unlike elsewhere, Armani’s prints were on the soothing side.
In order to keep the focus on the ever-changing fabric surfaces, the designer exercised firm control in his shapes, which were linear but not without softness and considerable diversity, at least on top. As usual, Armani opted for a single pants shape, which he showed over and over, both under jackets and as a layering piece under dresses. It was cropped and slit from hem to below the knees at the sides. For day, he offered gently draped dresses with one-shoulder capelets; tailored, belted jackets cut from fluid silks (these had a hint of Forties glam); snappy peplumed tunics over pants and simple, chic navy suits.
For evening, whether lavished with iridescent embroideries in intricate motifs or left unadorned in mesmerizing satins, Armani’s gowns beautifully worked the structured side of the mermaid genre, sans the fussy fishtail. He closed with a trio of delicately wrought whites, his models together on the runway (somewhat gingerly) in obvious homage to the Three Graces, and graceful it was.