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Backstage at Thakoon Spring 2012

WWD went behind the scenes at the spring show.

Backstage at Thakoon RTW Spring 2012

Backstage at Thakoon RTW Spring 2012

Photo By Giovanni Giannoni

Backstage in hair at Thakoon’s Bollywood-meets-Western show, almost everything was covered with a thin film of colored dust. “Thakoon was inspired by the festival of color in India,” explained lead hair stylist Odile Gilbert for Kérastase, describing Holi, a springtime holiday celebrated by people throwing colored powder at one another. Hair was therefore coated with dustable clay brought in from Europe that ranged in shades from bright pink to indigo. To begin, Gilbert worked a base of powder into damp hair from roots to tips with her fingers. Hair was then blow-dried and, depending on length and texture, was either curled or French braided and pinned under. Gilbert then mixed the color clays with water and brushed the pastes onto styled hair. The key Kérastase products she used? “Shampoo, conditioner, and hair mask after the show. This is the most important,” she said. 

 

With so much color in the hair, lead makeup artist Diane Kendal, working for Nars at this show, wanted little color on the face. “We’re doing the cowboy element on the face,” she said, which she translated into a beauty look with a “strong sculpted feel.” To contour cheekbones, Kendal applied a mixture of Nars blush in Zen, bronzer in Laguna, and blush in Gaiety, a new shade launching this spring, on cheekbones all the way up into the temples to highlight the top of the cheeks.  The focus of the look, however, were the eyebrows, which Kendal emphasized using Nars eye shadow in Bali, keeping the brows straight and “quite masculine.” Eye shadows in Portabello and Bengali shades were used to further define and contour the eye, as was Nars Loose Powder in Snow around the orbital for a luminous glow. To mute lips, Kendal used Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Belle de Jour, a sheer beige tone.

 

With a nod to the Indian inspiration, nails were painted pale gold with NARS nail polish in Versailles.