Backstage at Nicole Miller Spring 2012

“It’s about being put together but natural,” said James Kaliardos, lead artist for MAC Cosmetics.

For Nicole Miller’s spring collection, James Kaliardos, lead artist for MAC Cosmetics, channeled the early Eighties and effortlessly glam stars like Lauren Hutton. “It’s healthy and beautiful, darling,” said Kaliardos, who a used a “reddish brown” shade from MAC’s not-yet-launched Pro Palette in Cup of Joe to create a “warm smoky” eye, by smudging it into the creases and lower lash lines. He then defined top lashes with Opulash Optimum Mascara. “It’s about being put together but natural,” said Kaliardos. Cheeks were “sunken out à la Faye Dunaway,” with blush being applied “low” on the face and slightly “off-center.” Pro Longwear Lip Pencil in Nice ’n’ Spicy was then applied on the entire lip and Lip Conditioner SPF 15 was dabbed on to keep things feeling fresh. “It’s completely the opposite of dark or dead,” said Kaliardos. “It’s a girl who just went running, or is returning from a safari.”

Hair, styled by Kevin Ryan for Rsession Tools, was “simple” and had a “careless” feeling. The style featured a “slight bend” in the front, created with the help of a large-barreled curling iron, and ends were left straight. “The slight curl opens up the face,” said Ryan, who used plenty of Oribe Dry Texture spray throughout for an undone finish and “loose, gentle feel. It’s a young girl who doesn’t overtry,” added Ryan.