Rochas RTW Spring 2011

The dreamy, somnambulistic quality of liquid charmeuse gowns, slip dresses and pajama-like shirt jackets stood out.

Marco Zanini, whose mother is Swedish, said he finds “the key to elegance” in the modest, quality-minded nature of certain Swedish people. References to the Scandinavian country were sometimes blatant — a bulbous deb dress in a blue-and-white ceramic pattern anyone? — sometimes subtle, as in muted folkloric prints by artist Slotts Barbro on a shirtdress, which is a Zanini specialty. One in sky blue, falling full from the waist, swished playfully, revealing white underskirts. Spanning a wide range of silhouettes and attitudes, from filmy black slipdresses to more mannish trouser suits, the collection lacked focus. What stood out, though, was the dreamy, somnambulistic quality of liquid charmeuse gowns, slipdresses and pajama-like shirt jackets, some in vintage-looking florals, others the color of delicious heavy cream. Swede dreams, indeed.