Missoni RTW Spring 2009
Yes, the Seventies live on here chez Missoni. But don’t jump to any Studio-54/“Saturday Night Fever” conclusions. This was a gentle, rather mellow outing in keeping with the refined mood Angela Missoni’s been working these past few seasons. Consider her breezy silk organza caftan and miles-long, wide-leg linen pants, for instance. And there was plenty of sexy leg-baring, too, in ample thigh-grazing skorts and tunics. This time, she also underscored it all with a slightly futuristic vibe through her prints, which made for an intriguing counterpoint to the signature Missoni zigzag and honeycomb knit patterns. The former read like Liubov Popova graphics, sleeked up in metallic or shiny Jolly Rancher hues. (Missoni charmingly dubbed her collection colors candied cherry, apple green and biscuit.) There was a whiff of Japonaise throughout, as well, mainly in the fluid kimono shapes and the cinched-waist emphasis in wide belts. Evening, however, is where Missoni amped up on disco flash with sequins, beadwork and embroideries galore. It was a confident lineup, save for the finale parade of gowns bedecked with embroidery inspired by “mechanical elements,” which seemed out of sync with the collection.