Giorgio Armani RTW Spring 2009
Sometimes it’s fine to state the obvious. Which is what Giorgio Armani did in the program notes for the spring collection he showed on Monday, citing a lineup of “beautiful clothes designed to meet the demands of everyday life.” Spot-on, Giorgio, and terrifically so. This was the Armani of old — read signature, not dated — before his innate chic pragmatism cross-pollinated with increasingly exaggerated elements of exotica. Here, he rejected such flourishes, at least for now, in favor of a more discreet kind of fashion delivered in a broad range of looks, but always with the simplest of common threads, an aura of romance and the distinct waft of fresh air.
As a result, the collection felt young, but not inappropriately so, starting with the girls’ lovely makeup and casually undone hair, which played into the nonchalant mood. Case in point: a series of one-button pastel jackets cut with the casualness of bed jackets and worn over rounded skirts in fabrics with a subtle sheen. Short dresses came either strapless or petaled into gentle layers. Armani’s sportiest looks were walking shorts, fuller-cut than those at Emporio, and a jacket, cut away discreetly over a tank and slim skirt. It came in fabrics that were mostly pale-toned and languid, to ebb and flow with the body’s movements.
Evening was gorgeous, as again, Armani took a savvy step back from grand bohemia in favor of diaphanous pastel gowns. They came in webby laces and delicate chiffons, aglow with crystal embroideries, each one a distinctive gem.