Fendi RTW Spring 2009
Karl Lagerfeld, you’re so transparent. You could see right through his entire spring collection for Fendi, which focused on layered sheers. It was provocative, but not in a sexy way. Rather, Lagerfeld worked light-as-air layers, such as triple-tiered skirts that went from pouf to pencil, in a romantic and ultrafeminine fashion. The silhouette — cinched at the waist (more on that later) with a full bottom — could have been a tad old fashioned, but Lagerfeld pushed it toward the future with mesh and a variety of laser-cut laces, which flaunted the house’s cutting-edge tech techniques, all the while keeping things soft and pretty. Likewise for the novelty fur. Somehow Lagerfeld pulled off a “transparent” fur, and perhaps the emperor’s new clothes. And, while Fendi’s roots are in the fuzz, the house also banks big bucks on accessories, which were, for the most part, terrific. The bags, cleverly done up like undone Birkins, and shoes, trompe l’oeil stilettos, were witty and new. The same could not be said for the belts. Rib-bracing gladiator styles that were cut like a porthole through the center maimed the middle of all too many looks. Keep those belts back in the showroom.