spring-ready-to-wear 2009

Yohji Yamamoto Collection

Yohji Yamamoto RTW Spring 2009

Serenity has its appeal. Certainly it looked plenty inviting at Yohji Yamamoto on Monday night, when the designer staged one of his simplest shows in memory. Of course, everything is relative, and chez Yamamoto, simple is really anything but. Thus, the designer’s masterful tailoring appeared in all its asymmetric glory, but here rendered more subtly and in pared down proportions, namely mannish suits, some decorated with what appeared to be stark, broken chalk lines. In the spirit of yin-yang, Yamamoto gave near equal time to dresses, casually languid affairs in white and ivory fabric mixes, edges frayed and seams askew for a romantic homespun feeling. Still, one or two looked surprisingly glamorous, as did a pair of strapless navy and black printed gowns and a coat with an abundant ruffle that cascaded over a provocatively bare shoulder. As for accessories, since everything looks more glamorous with shades, and even the most artistic of designers aren’t above a little flagrant merch-waving, Yamamoto finished every look with an example of his just-launched sunglass line.


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