Sweet dreamer though she is, Tao Kurihara doesn’t lack discipline. In fact, she combined her whimsical inclinations with military restraint for spring. The result: a most adorable and inventive take on the familiar officer motif. Her main vehicle was the Sgt. Pepper jacket, a style plenty have plumbed for women’s wear, most recently at Balmain, where sequined and sexy versions stormed the runway. But in Kurihara’s hands, the brass buttons, braiding and overall boyish charm have never been so enchanting. She kept the buttoned breast central and surrounded it with ample flou in navy, white and black organza that was ruffled into peplums, pleated, pouffed and floated around the shoulders like a filmy cape. All this was layered over slim cropped trousers and shorts, also borrowed from the boys. Not only was the designer’s frothy fare an original take on a masculine moment, but that mannish influence exerted great control over Kurihara’s flourishes, even when a few clownish styles came marching in. Done in pretty pastel floral kilts and tops with more brass buttons and black bowler hats, they were frilly and fun and not silly at all.