spring-ready-to-wear 2009

Limi Feu Collection

Limi Feu RTW Spring 2009

Limi Yamamoto held her Limi Feu show at the Musée de l’Homme, and guests had to walk through an exhibition showcasing the early evolution of man to get to her catwalk. But the collection she showed was not some highbrow musing on mankind. Yamamoto worked a schoolgirl-uniform aesthetic, and some schoolboy, too, with the opening looks that followed a strict black blazer-white shirt-black trousers formula. The girlish moments highlighted tiered pleated skirts, a rather chic lantern-sleeve jacket and the finale suspender hoop skirts — all of which were rendered with a punkish undercurrent: Yamamoto’s girl is the behind-the-bleachers teen, with her shirt hanging out and arms covered in tats. And, as is the family wont, everything came intriguingly oversized, slouchy and wonderfully asymmetrical: hems or big pockets falling languidly to one side, for instance. They might be the Yohji-isms with which we’re already familiar, but this Yamamoto is pushing her own course delightfully forward.

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