spring-ready-to-wear 2009

Givenchy Collection

Givenchy RTW Spring 2009

“Cowboy Bondage Couture.” All words that have considerable resonance in fashion, though seldom in the same thought. Yet for the Givenchy collection he showed on Wednesday night, Riccardo Tisci put them together into a three-pronged motif (although the couture part proved nebulous). It made for a complicated, disjointed collection, often outright unattractive after a promising start, yet one that played cleverly to the cool-girl fan club the designer has developed.
On the up side, strong-shouldered tailoring looked good, incorporating the bondage element in jeweled strap action. And there were some racy little dresses with sheer cages over lace. Then along came the cowboys and whoa, Nellie! Yes, there’s a sexy power babe trend going on, often taking a futuristic turn, into which Tisci’s lineup fits, and off the runway, those increasingly devoted girls will love some of the legwear and boots. But there’s sexy, a little too sexy, and then there’s pointlessly vulgar, sans wit or newness, specifically, dual-fabric chaps that zoomed in on the girl’s private region. And the black and white flame getups looked like super villainess refugees from a comic book. One could only wonder why. Especially after glancing Natalia Vodianova en route to her seat looking gorgeous and graceful in Tisci’s gold chain-laden black dress from last season, this felt like a big cowboy-booted step backwards.



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