spring-ready-to-wear 2009
Gianfranco Ferré Collection
September 21, 2008
Gianfranco Ferré
RTW Spring 2009
Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi have a tall order at Ferré. Not only are they charged with making the house viable, but modern, as well, which it had ceased to be at the end of Mr. Ferré’s reign.
The duo approached their task with enthusiasm and respect. Structure, which has always been at Ferré’s core, was featured prominently — too much so, in fact. But this is a work in progress, with an emphasis on work. On the upside, the clothes were beautifully executed. Fabrics — silk organza, Gazar, faille, and techy types — were the best of their kind. And everything was finished with a studied level of sophistication.
On the downside, Aquilano and Rimondi took the idea of Cardin-esque Space Age to the extreme. Billowing sleeves, some falling into geometric shapes, read as old-fashioned, even ridiculous. For anyone considering the more embellished styles with Plexiglas embroideries, stiff-as-a-board bow bustles or ruffled-hip appendages, sitting down is not an option. And one dress, which featured fabric folded like rigid layers of parchment, could deliver a mean paper cut.
Softer moments, though few and far between, were reminders that Aquilano and Rimondi have the right ideas, but what they need now is a little restraint.
Timeline: Gianfranco Ferré
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- Maier, Tomas
- Malandrino, Catherine
- Mansell, Kevin
- Marant, Isabel
- Marciano, Maurice
- Marciano, Paul
- Margiela, Martin
- Markfield, Roger S
- Marras, Antonio
- McCartney, Stella
- McCollough, Jack
- McComb, William L
- McQueen, Alexander
- Mendel, Gilles
- Meyrowitz, Carol
- Miele, Carlos
- Miller, Nicole
- Mischka, James
- Missoni, Angela
- Mizrahi, Isaac
- Montgomery, R Lawrence
- Moralioglu, Erdem
- Mulleavy, Kate
- Mulleavy, Laura
- Murphy, Glenn
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