spring-ready-to-wear 2009

Giambattista Valli Collection

Giambattista Valli RTW Spring 2009

Giambattista Valli loves a dramatic silhouette, thus last season’s ill-advised trip to Quasimoto’s tower. For spring, he ditched the haute hunchbacks and gave his flair for the dramatic a more fruitful focus with fit and super flare dresses that nipped at the waist and splayed into teacup skirts. They came in deluxe silk satin, pleated chiffon, and white and black lace. Some had bateau necks and three-quarter sleeves, and all bloomed into a skirt boosted by stiff crinoline like a proper Fifties party dress. They were good old-fashioned fun. Still, Valli didn’t abandon his signature padded and cocooned techniques but worked them gently on padded collars and peplum jackets, and sheath dresses that fell into a slight curve at the back.
A newcomer to Valli’s show may not have noticed, but this season’s refreshing restraint didn’t stop for evening, an elaborate yet elegant affair. He romanced to the fullest with pencil skirts embellished with beautiful black and white embroidery, petaled pompoms placed at the shoulder or pockets of slim dresses. But in the ballgown finale he unleashed a frothy flood with tons of tulle, which was bunched into cascading ruffles that didn’t stop.

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