spring-ready-to-wear 2009

Emporio Armani Collection

Emporio Armani RTW Spring 2009

Calm down. That was Giorgio Armani's message at Emporio Armani (at least after the brief commercial for the brand’s new light-up phone by Samsung) and it made for a lovely collection indeed, underscored by his lineup of pretty models  with simple makeup and slicked back hair. Armani worked the gentle mood from a vaguely East-West counterpoint, never so glaringly that it turned costumey.

He opened with jackets and pants all in gray mixes, the better to concentrate on the silhouette, lean on top, the pants pleated and tapered toward the ankle for a line that was shapely yet relaxed. While showing a clear preference for pants, he digressed occasionally with a long, textured cardigan over a dress or a vest-like halter over a skirt in mismatched nautical stripes.

His languid evening dresses, all shown with flats, could do double-duty at the beach (albeit a tony beach), one serene stunner an impressionistic rose floral, another bedecked with giant glittering butterflies. And ever of-the-moment, Armani accessorized primarily with one of fashion’s favorite current obsessions, jewelry, opting for multiple-strand pearl necklaces punctuated with big, multi-texture blossoms that looked to be of the commercial flower power variety.    

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