spring-couture 2009

Stéphane Rolland Collection

Stéphane Rolland
Spring Couture 2009

Since he founded his own couture house a few seasons back, Stéphane Rolland has embraced a sleek, glamour-puss look that has won him favor with clients from Suzanne Saperstein to Ivana Trump, both of whom sat in the front row at his show. Rolland continued in that vein for spring, putting architectural details on slinky silhouettes, and cited Ron Arad, Andrée Putman and Brancusi as inspirations. That translated into geometric pleated effects cascading down the front of a dress to cape gowns billowing in back. A decorative jewel theme, including a dress with strands of pearls that looked somewhat Lanvin-esque, and big patent bows complimented the style. Rolland also toyed with Sixties-style modernism à la Cardin in structured, Space Age tops and funky stonelike beading. While there were some fine dresses — Rolland’s columnar numbers were sexiest — others felt overly complicated. Striking a balance with so many influences is never an easy job.

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