Women’s Wear Daily
04.16.2014

Men's Fall Collections 2014

Brioni

Brioni Collection

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Brioni Men's RTW Fall 2014

Brendan Mullane traveled to Japan — figuratively and literally — for this ultra-luxe collection of one-of-a-kind pieces and delicate silhouettes.

Brioni Mens RTW Fall 2014

Creative director Brendan Mullane traveled to Japan — figuratively and literally — for this collection of one-of-a-kind pieces and delicate silhouettes.

Their interest piqued by a 1963 diary Mullane found in the Brioni archives describing a trip to Japan made by the brand’s cofounder, Gaetano Savini, the design team boarded a plane to the island nation. There, Mullane worked with kimono artists to create a nature print that he wove into dark suits and used on silk shirts. Silk bomber jackets were hand-painted with white and black cranes — which also feature in the print — and no two are the same. The Japanese theme extended to belted, wrap-front “kimono” jackets that resembled the top of a karate suit.

The collection’s cool palette of teal, icy blue, gray and burgundy, meanwhile, was inspired by Caravaggio’s chiaroscuro technique, as were the shadowy weaves on jackets.

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