mens-fall-collections 2009

Versace Collection

Versace Men's RTW Fall 2009

Trust Donatella Versace and Alexandre Plokhov to bring sexy back to a drab Milan season where sobriety and caution have prevailed. Since Plokhov joined in 2007, the brand has struggled to find a balance between Versace’s penchant for excess and Plokov’s austere sensibility. Not this season. The two finally gelled and in doing so, proved that luxury doesn’t need to go into its shell. “It’s a very strong collection for a self-assured man,” said Versace, who drew her inspiration from the virile characters in Raymond Chandler’s “Pickup on Noon Street,” a tribute to the heroic Hollywood stars of the Twenties and Thirties. Opening with a soothing palette of pale tones, the duo led their broad-shouldered man - svelte rather than slim - on a winter time stroll armed with yards of plush fabrics to fight off chill Arctic winds. A perfectly tailored fleece coat with a textured astrakhan-like surface worn with a creamy mink scarf was equal parts  snuggly and sexy, while a hand-knitted cashmere and chinchilla sweater matched with powdery wool pants murmured rather than screamed luxury. Darker, but hardly somber looks followed, including a robe-like cashmere coat belted at the waist and double-breasted suits with wide lapels, evoked film noir heroes.  Employing sumptuous yet understated fabrics, this controlled and inspiring collection raised the bar – and apparently temperatures – as polar icecaps in the show’s video backdrop melted and tumbled. Finally, a strong silent type of Versace man arrived to sweep a gal off her feet.

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