mens-fall-collections 2009

Raf Simons Collection

Raf Simons Men's RTW Fall 2009

The biggest shock that Raf Simons, a consummate innovator and futurist, could have given his audience was a lineup of flawless, classic suits - and that’s exactly how he opened his mesmerizing and powerful fall show. The one novelty was a small reflective shard, inlaid in the jacket where a pocket square would normally appear. “It goes straight back to when I started,” said Simons, who launched his label in Antwerp in 1995. “I wanted to bring tailoring to young men, and turn it into something young and energetic, because I think the suit is problematic; it’s too passive.” Thus he drew in design elements suggesting strength and action, putting some of his handsome young models in high-tech sneakers instead of lace-ups dress shoes, for example. As the show progressed, suits sprouted sleeves of contrasting colors, or were layered with long-sleeved shrugs made of fine knits, or turquoise or pink neoprene. These were roundly cut to beef up the shoulders and arms, while knit tubes or tailored corsets were layered over shirts to elongate the torso. The look suggested workaday humans morphing into superheroes - perhaps catalyzed by those mysterious shards. The disorienting stage set of rotating, reflective panels heightened the experience of now-you-see-it-now-you-don’t. And just when the show felt like it was nearing a crescendo, it abruptly ended, leaving the audience wanting more.

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