Fall Ready-to-Wear 2015

Vera Wang

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Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015

Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015

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  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015
  • Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015

Vera Wang RTW Fall 2015

In a boldly provocative collection, Vera Wang went dark and brooding, invoking both her minimalist and decorative tendencies.

What trumps being loved? What about being loved and loathed simultaneously?

On Tuesday morning, Vera Wang showed a captivating collection, one she must know will finds its haters, perhaps outnumbering its fans. Brava for her. In a fashion landscape engulfed in an increasingly dense thicket of safety, Wang went rogue in her audacity, going dark and moody-broody without the typical outs of youth or fringe status. She is a mainstream designer who makes expensive clothes for adults. Her proposal: Unapologetic severity tinged with grown-up Goth. It looked sensational.

Correction: In this critic’s view, it looked sensational. But certainly even haters found it genuinely provocative; it’s worth talking about because it had something to say.

Backstage, Wang ticked off masculine-feminine, the tailoring, her love of outerwear and, given the glut of merch out there, the need to develop fabrics, embellishments and cuts worthy of the “designer” handle. She didn’t identify the collection’s overarching mood, but rather, its opposite. “It’s not a Hollywood collection,” she said.

Here was a dark victory of identity over blandness with convergent references taken from street, sport, boudoir and the Eighties explosion of Japanese fashion. Wang delivered them in a range from stark minimalism to unfussy embellishment. The palette — black with strategic shots of bright white — heightened the focus on silhouette, whether in a perfectly plain wool-mohair column, tailored pieces with asymmetric draped sleeves (simple to look at but not to cut) or a black faille coat with bubbled hem that might have strolled this way from couture. Wang inserted decoration with cascades of graphic black and white flower appliqués, some leather, some poplin, on pieces from outerwear to a sheer T-shirt and a black plastic skirt. The surface intensity continued in ultrathick cable knits, as major sweaters and as the sleeves on a mannish coat.

Of course, paying customers won’t wear the clothes the way the models did; they’ll lighten up on the visage and footwear. (The models wore poker pusses and heavy boots.) And yes, broken down, there are beautiful coats, jackets, pants and dresses that have considerable range. But some of this isn’t for everyone; instead it speaks to a very specific aesthetic. In other words, it’s fashion.

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