Women’s Wear Daily
04.24.2014

Fall Ready-to-Wear 2014

Narciso Rodriguez

Narciso Rodriguez Collection

Narciso Rodriguez RTW Fall 2014 Video

These clothes played up the idea of the empowered woman as the designer saw it in the noir movement.

Narciso Rodriguez RTW Fall 2014
Player for videos embedded on individual pages

Narciso Rodriguez RTW Fall 2014

See more Runway videos

A subtle noirish quality was in the air at Narciso Rodriguez, a feeling intensified by the foggy atmosphere at the Sir Stage37 venue. The designer had been contemplating such a mood in the days leading up to his fall collection, which made a powerful statement — in quite the literal sense, as these clothes played up the idea of the empowered woman as he saw it in the cinematic movement. “It portrayed women to be very strong and beautiful,” he said backstage before the show.

Rodriguez considered a variety of influences, from Sixties German minimalism to the graphic bronze sculptures of Lynn Chadwick and a book cover of Jessie Dumont’s “I Prefer Girls,” a work of Sixties lesbian pulp fiction. The latter, an image of two woman in a suggestive pose, one in a body-hugging red dress with matching lipstick, set the stage for these strong clothes.

The opener — a sleek red coat with black pants — indeed had a vampish quality, though elsewhere Rodriguez approached the theme with subtlety and a certain subversiveness. This came through particularly in his sculpted silhouettes that exposed just the right amount of skin and his chic double-faced wool coats, which were relaxed in their fit and featured contrast-colored lapels such as the white-and-black ones on a green style. They looked casually thrown on, as if she were rushing away in a hurry.

There was a severity to some of these women — a notion the designer played up with panache. Throughout, Rodriguez continued to balance more minimal silhouettes with maximal detail. Case in point, his exquisite beading work. Artfully embroidered pieces in a combination of matte and shiny for organic patterns, these shifts and shells — all shimmering in gorgeous hues of silver, violet and green — will bring extra sensuality to any noir moment.

load comments

ADD A COMMENT

Sign in using your Facebook or Twitter account, or simply type your comment below as a guest by entering your email and name. Your email address will not be shared. Please note that WWD reserves the right to remove profane, distasteful or otherwise inappropriate language.

Ads by Google

WWDirectory

#

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

I

J

K

L

M

N

O

P

Q

R

S

T

U

V

W

X

Y

Z

#

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

I

J

K

L

M

N

O

P

Q

R

S

T

U

V

W

X

Y

Z

#

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

I

J

K

L

M

N

O

P

Q

R

S

T

U

V

W

X

Y

Z

Newsletters
Newsletters

Sign upSign up for WWD and FN newsletters to receive daily headlines, breaking news alerts and weekly industry wrap-ups.

Publications

ArticleFinder

Fashion


Choose By

Clear

How it works

Close

Lorem Ipsum
Dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Vivamus ac nibh et risus lobortis scelerisque tempor nec enim. Etiam facilisis sapien sit amet.

Lorem Ipsum
Dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Vivamus ac nibh et risus lobortis scelerisque tempor nec enim. Etiam facilisis sapien sit amet.

Lorem Ipsum
Dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Vivamus ac nibh et risus lobortis scelerisque tempor nec enim. Etiam facilisis sapien sit amet.

Lorem Ipsum
Dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Vivamus ac nibh et risus lobortis scelerisque tempor nec enim. Etiam facilisis sapien sit amet.

Lorem Ipsum
Dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Vivamus ac nibh et risus lobortis scelerisque tempor nec enim. Etiam facilisis sapien sit amet.


Or