Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s fall collection was about nostalgia for their childhood. “Things that you would imagine you want to wear when you were younger, or even just our understanding of the time period we grew up in,” said Laura, attempting to explain what specifically they were nostalgic for, before the show.
Kate was born in 1979, Laura a year later, and the clothes flashed back to that transitional period from the last days of disco to the early Eighties.
Perhaps in response to the criticism last season’s L.A. subculture theme drew, the Mulleavys’ fall lineup was notably softer, prettier and generally more palatable. Yet it was not a return to the ethereal romance and couturelike wonders of their early days. Their point of view has shifted.
A series of fluttery chiffon styles — dresses and a jumpsuit — with smocked bodices studded with crystals could have shimmied across the party deck of the Love Boat. They came in orange, brown, mustard and chalky pastels, setting the Seventies tone in terms of color scheme and style. Deep red paper-bag pants were worn with a gray turtleneck and a charming crocheted sweater that triggered nostalgia of a different kind: oh for a comeback of those webby Rodarte knits of a few seasons ago.
Turtlenecks were everywhere — solids and clingy mélange knits that were layered under off-the-shoulder sweaters, dresses, long lace gowns and tailored glitter jackets with shearling collars.
Lest anyone missed the other retro cues, the finale featured five asymmetric draped silk charmeuse gowns printed with imagery from the designers’ favorite movie trilogy: Luke Skywalker, C-3PO, R2-D2 and, yes, even Yoda. They went for it. As Yoda says, “Do... or do not.”