Women’s Wear Daily
04.24.2014

Fall Ready-to-Wear 2014

Michael van der Ham

Michael van der Ham Collection

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Michael van der Ham RTW Fall 2014

Intro, the irreverent Sixties fashion magazine, and the 1995 film “Party Girl” were the starting points for the designer's upbeat collection.

Michael van der Ham RTW Fall 2014

Michael van der Ham stumbled upon a copy of Intro, the irreverent Sixties fashion magazine, in a secondhand book dealer’s shop in Covent Garden. That, along with the low-budget 1995 film “Party Girl” starring a clothes-obsessed Parker Posey, were the starting points for his upbeat collection.

Van der Ham toned down his collage style by working in a floral jacquard that mixed shiny and raw silk into one fabric. The Sixties references showed up in the bright color palette — orange, cobalt, peach, yellow, red — and guipure lace separates and shift dresses, while the Nineties played out via layering. One peach lace dress had an underlayer of sheer peach chiffon attached to a border in the same lace, giving the impression of a dropped hem. That deconstructed hem was seen throughout on skirts worn with intarsia knits and printed sweatshirts.

The show closed with a group of pretty cocktail dresses. The best of these had a cantaloupe-hued velour bodice and a navy skirt embroidered with shredded chiffon rosettes and pellets of Swarovski crystal.

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