Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi took their signature embellished creations in a more masculine direction for fall with a collection that blended tailoring with Art Deco-inspired floral motifs.
A stylized rose pattern appeared on a chic gray jacquard V-neck dress with a deep split at the back, exposing a ruched flesh-colored underskirt. The florals were rendered in a more tactile manner on brown devoré velvet mixed with glen-plaid wool, namely on an oversize drop-shouldered coat.
The flowers turned three-dimensional with metallic embroideries sprouting on items such as a burgundy wool sleeveless dress with a sheer organza underskirt. “It’s decorative versus realism, masculine versus feminine, light against matte — but all the fabrics are really precious,” Aquilano noted backstage.
Those fabrics included an eye-catching leather that was treated with acid to create alternating shiny and matte effects on a jacket and matching skirt. But with the plainer looks (e.g., bulky jackets with oversize velvet buttons), it seemed that the designers strayed from what they do best.