Inheriting a house with one of the most distinctive signatures in fashion has been both a blessing and a challenge for Angela Missoni. Such an ultraspecific identity is indisputably solid, but it’s not always prime for reinvention. But for fall, Missoni negotiated her terms seamlessly, staying true to the label’s knitwear traditions, while producing something new and altogether fabulous.
The word backstage was that Missoni was in a "cool and slightly hip-hop" mood. But if the latter turned up on the soundtrack, the clothes played more like an upbeat romp through the land of luscious knits, done with an Angela of Arabia spirit. That is to say there were layers — lots of them. Cardigans, long and short, some trailing into extra-long scarves; lamé miniskirts and shorts; silk slip dresses; ribbed leggings; elaborately knit jogging pants, and loads of swaddling hooded scarves. Missoni piled them on in one fetching combination after another that owed as much to the soft textures as the palette — pinks, peaches and glittery golds, shot with the occasional pop of cobalt blue — done right.
Is it worth mentioning that the webby knit dresses drew comparisons with Rodarte? Perhaps, but considering Missoni’s vast history with the genre, chances are they’ve been there before. And for all the great foundations, some of the collection’s best moments came in the form of excellent coats, whether men’s wear-inspired or a dizzying array of cozy takes on the chunky cardigan that were the icing on the cake.