After last season's manmade rainstorm, early messages warning patrons to dress warmly for Yohji Yamamoto's show were received with some trepidation. The designer turned Manhattan's Pier 40 into an urban igloo with several backlit, 12-foot-high walls of ice. But the collection, inspired by the mountaineering lifestyle, was anything but frigid. It began with a few uncharacteristically feminine pieces in blinding plaids, as in a jacket with structured shoulders paired with a miniskirt and tights. The looks reverted to Yamamoto's usual dark palette, though his new, prettier side of Y-3 stuck around — in fringed blazers and even a tailored dress or two — that mixed in well with the expected asymmetric, athletic looks.