1. BARNEYS NEW YORK
Location: 44 around the country
For the second consecutive time, Barneys New York has been voted the most infl uential men’s wear store in the U.S. Under the watchful eye of men’s GMM Tom Kalenderian, the store scours the world for the latest and greatest designer brands to stock its seven flagships, two smaller stores, 15 Co-ops and 13 outlets. Although the business is currently without a CEO, its mission remains steadfast: to offer the finest of-the-moment merchandise, much of it exclusive to the retailer. The store’s latest thrust was the opening of a made-to-measure suite at its Madison Avenue home, designed to woo the discriminating male shopper and capitalize on the growth in that category. On the horizon are new flagships in Chicago and Scottsdale, Ariz., slated for 2009.
2. FRED SEGAL
Location: Los Angeles and Santa Monica, Calif.
Owners: Santa Monica location owned by Fred Segal family; Melrose flagship owned by Bud Brown; individual shop owners license the Fred Segal name for their boutiques.
Pegging Fred Segal to a singular men’s wear aesthetic is a fruitless endeavor. As savvy DNR readers know, the storied L.A. retailer is no monolith, instead comprising multiple boutiques—Fred Segal Man, Fred Segal Fun, Fred Segal Trend, Ron Robinson and Ron Herman (see separate entry number 6) among them. But if there’s a common bond between them, it’s a legacy for launching emerging brands that quickly get noticed elsewhere. Scotch & Soda, Cold Method and Raf Simons for Fred Perry are among current favorites with local discerning shoppers, according to Karen Meena, vice-president of Ron Robinson.
Location: Two stores in New York, plus the affiliated Den shop
Owners: Edward Chai and Paul Birardi
Since landing in the East Village in 2004, Odin has fast grown from a neighborhood favorite to an international men’s wear destination. With a second, much larger location now on Lafayette Street, and the single-brand retail concept, Den, next door to the original East Village shop, Chai and Birardi have plenty of opportunities to purvey innovative men’s designers including Robert Geller, Shipley & Halmos and Engineered Garments. This year the duo added women’s wear to its roster, via a nearby sister shop called Pas de Deux.
4. BERGDORF GOODMAN MEN
Location: New York
Owner: Neiman Marcus Group
Frequent events, an eye for designer talent and a sumptuous atmosphere keep Bergdorf Goodman Men on the speed-dials of the world’s style setters. Since the men’s store opened in 1990, it has served both a traditional sartorial consumer and a designer collection shopper. It has increasingly focused on discovering and supporting the new wave of American designers, which began with Thom Browne, Tim Hamilton and its former fashion director Michael Bastian. Most recently it added Spurr and Rag & Bone. In June, it opened a Tom Ford shop that is the largest designer shop in its history.
5. OPENING CEREMONY
Location: New York and L.A.
Owners: Humberto Leon and Carol Lim
Opening Ceremony opened its doors in New York in 2002 in a somewhat rickety space on a somewhat desolate street near Chinatown. But with its avant-garde selection of young designer labels, like Patrik Ervell, Band of Outsiders and Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair, it became a hidden gem for New York’s discerning fashion pack—although the secret is pretty much out of the bag now. Last year owners Humberto Leon and Carol Lim opened a 5,000-square-foot store on La Cienega Boulevard in L.A., and the duo have become rather prominent tastemakers on both coasts. Opening Ceremony also wholesales a namesake sportswear label, and Leon and Lim operate a showroom business on the side. Next up on their to-do list: opening stores in Europe.
6. RON HERMAN
Location: Los Angeles
Owner: Ron Herman
Ron Herman has maintained his relevance in the world of Los Angeles men’s sportswear business for decades, even as many of the brands he’s helped to cultivate have developed a me-too attitude when it comes to opening stores along Melrose Avenue, where his men’s store still resides within the ivy-covered walls of Fred Segal. (Herman also has stores in Beverly Hills, Brentwood and Malibu.) Detail-oriented, accessible sportswear brands like Nice Collective sit alongside Lanvin and other crème de la crème European labels at his twostory boutique. His L.A. customers, Herman says, “have a more worldly sense of fashion today. They are more aware, and they care about presence.”
1. BARNEYS NEW YORK