fashion-memopad
fashion-memopad

Memo Pad: Who's Bigger?... Luxury Battle... Triple Play...

Rachel Zoe has never been known for having a small ego, but who knew she considered herself the most important woman in fashion.

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WHO’S BIGGER?: Rachel Zoe has never been known for having a small ego, but who knew she considered herself the most important woman in fashion. “Anna Wintour is one of my heroes, but they say I’m more influential,” Zoe tells Lynn Hirschberg in this Sunday’s issue of The New York Times Magazine. “As great as it is, Vogue won’t change a designer’s business. But if an unknown brand is worn by a certain person in a tabloid, it will be the biggest designer within a week.”

Arrogant? Perhaps. But she’s certainly making a comparable salary to the famed editor in chief. According to Hirschberg, the stylist makes roughly $6,000 a day, which is generally paid for by the movie studios when her clients have movies to promote for them. And others are clearly interested in her services as well, among them the Bravo network, which is reportedly in talks with Zoe about doing a show for them. — Jacob Bernstein

LUXURY BATTLE: Fortune decided to make its annual luxury issue all about fashion — at least on the cover — by choosing to highlight pieces on Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs and Brooks Brothers. And while the cover may seem a departure for the business title, it’s another indicator the magazine is serious about the luxury category — and its ad dollars. The issue comes about a year after Fortune hired assistant managing editor John Brodie to cover luxury.

And Brodie confirmed the magazine plans to do more stories on “the business of style” in the future. “The luxury goods industry is a $250 billion industry, why shouldn’t Fortune cover it with the same uncompromising journalism and elegant photography that we bring to other sectors of the global economy?” But do cover lines about Lauren and Jacobs appeal to the average Fortune reader? “I think it’s really narrow-minded to imply that just because someone works with spreadsheets, he or she doesn’t know what a spread collar is — particularly if that spread collar is part of a $4.5 billion, publicly traded company like Polo Ralph Lauren,” he added.

And is it sheer coincidence Fortune is getting more aggressive about covering fashion and luxury, given that new rival Portfolio says those categories also form part of its core coverage? Brodie declined to talk about Portfolio’s aim at the luxury market, or the magazine in general. However, Portfolio group president and publishing director David Carey said luxury will continue as a core ad category and, so far, regular luxury advertisers include Ralph Lauren, Giorgio Armani, Hugo Boss, Tod’s and Calvin Klein. — Amy Wicks

TRIPLE PLAY: Wallpaper is the next magazine to tap a guest editor, or more specifically, three: Hedi Slimane, Jeff Koons and Dieter Rams. Each has created a cover, plus inside pages. Slimane has contributed a set of 20 posters, using his own photography and typography. He also sat down for an interview with features director Nick Compton at the Mercer Hotel in New York. In the October issue, which hits newsstands in London today, Compton writes about how they ran into Marc Jacobs at the hotel. “Where Jacobs is ebullient, expansive, theatrical, and very much on home ground at the Mercer, Slimane is quiet, shy, unfailingly polite, self-deprecating, devoid, it seems, of the diva gene,” he writes (at least with journalists; Compton clearly wasn’t privy to Slimane’s hard-nosed contract negotiations with Dior executives). The former Dior Homme designer said he loves fashion design and misses it, but he doesn’t want to be taken hostage by a brand’s success. “So I need to follow my own principles, to feel that the project is right and that the timing makes sense.”
Tony Chambers, Wallpaper’s editor in chief, said the magazine put together a “wish list” of guest editors from the worlds of art, fashion, architecture and design, and they all said yes. “This seemed to go well so we might make this a regular thing in October,” he said. In addition, he added readers will be seeing more fashion in the magazine via fashion director Kim Andreolli. The issue also marks the first time photographer Mario Sorrenti has worked with Wallpaper. — A.W.

NEW GIG: Former Shop Etc. executive editor Charla Krupp has landed at More magazine as a fashion columnist. The column, which begins in the November issue, is a natural tie-in to her book, forthcoming in January, “How Not to Look Old.” Before Shop Etc., which Hearst folded in August 2006, Krupp worked at Glamour and In Style. — Irin Carmon

DIFFERENT DIRECTION: The cover of the new Bergdorf Goodman magazine isn’t a typical one for the department store, but that’s the point, said creative director Aidan Kemp. In the new issue, customers will get a different vision of what Bergdorf’s has to offer, he added, apart from more traditional names like Chanel. Photographed in Iceland, the cover features a model wearing a Costume National satin dress with red-orange-colored tights and hot-pink gloves. “We could have gone with safe and beautiful, but this feels more modern and graphic,” Kemp offered. Readers will probably also notice a heftier issue from last September, as ad pages are up 15 percent. Inside, the magazine has contributions from GQ’s Style Guy, Glenn O’Brien, and a conversation between Gay Talese and Peter Kaplan on the future of print journalism. — A.W.
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