fashion-memopad
fashion-memopad

Memo Pad: Where Are They Now... Copy Cat... The Mirror Has Two Faces...

Rolling Stone's special 40th anniversary issue, on newsstands today, includes a package on the "artists and leaders who helped shape our time" of the past 40 years.

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WHERE ARE THEY NOW?: Rolling Stone's special 40th anniversary issue, on newsstands today, includes a package on the "artists and leaders who helped shape our time" of the past 40 years. The magazine includes interviews with Tom Wolfe, Jimmy Carter, Bob Dylan, Mick Jagger, Keith Richards, Ringo Star and Paul McCartney, among others. Of these leaders, only two of the subjects are women — Patti Smith and Jane Fonda — and none of the iconic leaders are African-American. Journalist and filmmaker Nelson George, author of "Hip-Hop America," isn't surprised, though: "Despite giving lip service to rock's black roots, [Rolling Stone] paid only sporadic attention to black music or cultural icons from the Sixties right up into the Nineties when hip-hop's popularity with white kids forced them to cover it. So those selections don't speak to the reality of black culture's impact during this period — it speaks to the decision-making and prejudices of Rolling Stone's editors and publishers during most of its history."

One could argue the names Jann Wenner and his staff chose speak to many of the issues that most affected Baby Boomers — the war in Vietnam and protest against the draft, free love, drug use, civil rights and women's rights. But the lack of an African-American among the 20 people seems to completely overlook the seminal issue of race during the period.

Other media observers found the list, at the least, whitewashed. Vibe editor in chief Danyel Smith, who has not seen the issue, believed the package is just a reflection of the audience. "I can only imagine they have a clear idea of who their readership is and they're doing their best in serving that readership." But, she added, "it would leave some of us to wonder if that readership is multicultural." Rolling Stone declined to comment. — Stephanie D. Smith

COPY CAT: It's not every day an artist takes a designer to task for lifting inspiration from his work. (Just think what would happen to Tom Sachs if it went the other way around.) But that's exactly what American photographer William Klein, who lives in Paris, has done with John Galliano's namesake company. Klein last month won a 200,000 euro, or $266,000, decision from Paris' Tribunal de Grand Instance court over accusations that Galliano plagiarized the photographer's work in the spring ads for the Galliano secondary line. A spokeswoman for Galliano said the decision was being appealed. In the meantime, Galliano has stopped the advertising campaign, which already has appeared in Paris Vogue and Numero, among other magazines. The art in question is one of Klein's well-known photographic contact sheets painted with bold strokes of color. Indeed, Galliano's campaign, with pictures by Julien d'Ys, features similar bold strokes of color around pictures on a contact sheet. Klein told Paris daily Le Monde that he was "bitter and furious" over the campaign. "In his collections [Galliano's] a virtuoso," Klein said. "But [the advertising] is a low blow." — Robert Murphy
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