Deborah Turbeville Goes Big

Deborah Turbeville Goes Big

by David Moin

Posted Wednesday November 04, 2009

From WWD Issue 11/04/2009

Add a Comment Send to a friend Print
A-  A  A+ 
DOWNLOAD PDF
Share
RSS

An image from Turbeville’s “Silent Film” show at Ralph Pucci International.

Photo By Deborah Turbeville

Avant-garde photographer Deborah Turbeville typically exhibits in galleries where space is tight, and that’s just fine with her.

“I like to cram things,” like an artist obsessively fills every inch of a notebook with sketches, she says. “I don’t work in such big spaces.”

So exhibiting in the 15,000-square-foot penthouse of Ralph Pucci International at 44 West 18 Street in New York triggered a different approach, causing her to make larger prints than normal and clustering them into collages or visual stories, to be sold that way.

For the exhibit at Pucci, she’s reinvented much of her groundbreaking work from the late Seventies and Eighties. “They’re really remade from prints of years ago, when you had all this marvelous paper that doesn’t exist anymore,” Turbeville said. Though the prints are digitally reproduced and available in a limited run, she feels they capture all the imperfections, haziness and tonality of the originals, even the masking tape she used to cover tears. “I scratch and do a lot of things with my photographs,” culminating in a distressed look of antiquity and ambiguity.

Turbeville’s show at Pucci, entitled “Silent Film,” launches Thursday night with a party. “Whether it’s mannequins, art, sculpture or photography, there’s clearly a thread that runs through all of it. Deborah’s vision is consistent with ours,” Pucci says.

About half the photos are set in and around Versailles, France, but she exposes the behind-the-scenes Versailles, those musty back rooms and storage spaces off-limits to the public. There are even photographs shot in Marie Antoinette’s little-known theater, not far from the palace, where private performances for the king and his inner circle were held. Her treatment of sculptures kept in storage by the Louvre museum evokes “kind of a seance,” she says. “They are not all [shot] straight on. It’s a tracking shot, like a mini film.”

They’re all taken from her “Unseen Versailles” series abetted by Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, who helped Turbeville gain access to the royal palace. Other photos on display were shot in Saint Petersburg, Russia, where she spends three to four months out of each year lecturing and photographing, and in Venice for carnival.

More photo artist than fashion photographer, Turbeville is inspired by the great silent film directors from France, Germany, Russia and Japan, including Jean Cocteau and Rainer Werner Fassbinder. Her subjects are treated in unexpected ways amid offbeat locales she discovers, like an old wine distillery in Bercy, outside Paris, or the underbelly of a royal palace. “I tend to like very classic things. I focus on the face,” but there’s as much to the composition in the scene she sets and the story behind it that can only be imagined.

“I find personalities, look for interesting faces and do pictures in locations suggestive of the rest of the work,” explains Turbeville. “I combine clothes, people and place to make a story....I like strange places.”

Turbeville has been labeled the “anti-Helmut Newton,” shuns photographing supermodels, remains famous for her erotic “Bath House” series for Vogue in 1975, and mostly for transforming fashion photography into avant-garde art. She was never schooled in photography aside from attending one seminar on theory with Richard Avedon (who first spotted her work) and Marvin Israel to encourage young photographers.

She has a new book, “Past Imperfect,” published by Steidl. It’s available in Europe and soon to be in the U.S. In about a month, she’s off on assignment in Poland and Russia for Italian Vogue, L’Uomo Vogue and Casa Vogue. As far as the subject she’ll tackle, she says simply, “I have no idea.”

It’s another voyage of discovery.

Loading Comments, Please Wait:
Progress

WWD.com is the authority for news and trends in the worlds of fashion, beauty and retail. Featuring daily headlines and breaking news from all Women's Wear Daily publications, WWD.com provides the most comprehensive coverage anywhere of fashion, beauty and retail news and is the leading destination for all fashion week updates and show reviews from New York, Paris, Milan and London.

Use of and/or registration on any portion of this site constitutes acceptance of our Terms of Use (REVISED 5/22/09) and Privacy Policy (REVISED 5/22/09).
© 2009 Fairchild Fashion Group and its licensors. All rights reserved.
The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Fairchild Fashion Group.

WWD

  • + More Slideshows
  • Print
  • Print All
  • ClipUnclip
  • Edit Note
  • + Share
  •  

  • My Favorites
  • Images (0)
  • Articles (0)
minimize
    See More