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FN Spy: Milan Edition, Part Two

Spy gathers more scoops from Nicholas Kirkwood, the Caovillas and more.

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Cavaliere Crew
Nicholas Kirkwood got extra crafty to celebrate Pollini’s 60th anniversary. The brand’s creative director built a giant installation of stacked boxes to display both historical and new fall styles (this was a curated collaboration with magazine editor Jane Audas). And Kirkwood designed a capsule collection of six boots, built on the classic 1977 Cavaliere silhouette, to represent stylish personalities from the last six decades. The designer drew from a range of Pollini style icons, including David Bowie, Patty Hearst, Ellen von Unwerth and Grace Jones. “Lena Dunham was the most contemporary,” Kirkwood told Spy, “because I think she’s quite cool and inspiring and it was fun to come up with something that suited her.” The evening’s festivities also featured Pollini nail wraps and a photo booth in which people could be photographed in the label’s latest styles.

Sandra’s Day
Now the sole creative director at Jimmy Choo (following Simon Holloway’s recent departure), Sandra Choi brought her A-game to the brand’s recent showing. “I’ve had a chance to be a bit selfish for this collection, and I focused on what I like best,” Choi said of the offering’s strong tailoring, rich details and feminine silhouettes. “The ruffle ankle sandal is lovely, but with a zip, so it keeps that edge to it.”

Family Ties
An obsession with shoes is part of the Caovilla family DNA. Brand namesake René, along with his wife, Paola, and CEO son Edoardo, was on hand in Milan to show of the label’s fall collection. While waiters in tailcoats circulated with silver platters of dazzling, crystal-encrusted shoes, Edoardo revealed the brand’s debut handbag line. The following night, the exec hosted a private dinner at Da Giacomo with a starry view of the Duomo. “Things are about to get very busy,” said the expectant father, “so I figured we should toast the collection and 80 years in business.” Meanwhile, matriarch Paola Buratto Caovilla recently applied her artistic talents to the canvas, creating a series of paintings depicting — of course — shoes. “The love for shoes is in our blood,” said the artist, who will host an exhibition in Monte Carlo, Monaco, at the Ottavio Fabbri and Robert Zehil gallery, on March 23-29. And true to the family passion, daughter Giorgia Caovilla has pursued her own path in footwear with her latest collection for O Jour. It boasts equestrian boots and silk sandals, complete with satin bows for a feminine flourish. During fashion week, she gave out horseshoes in connection to the equestrian theme, which was inspired by her love for riding horses, a hobby she shares with her two young daughters. “This collection is all about bringing good luck back to the European economy and to the wearer,” she said.

Magli to the Max
Bruno Magli creative director Max Kibardin brought a fairy tale to life for fall. Or so thought his 3-year-old daughter, Mathilde. “Because we did the presentation with models this season, she said there were the beauties — the lovely pastel-colored handbags and jeweled shoes — and there was even a bearded ‘beast,’” Kibardin explained, adding that Mathilde even assisted in the styling of the photo shoot for the lookbook. “I would love to do children’s shoes,” added the proud father, “and it’s a project Bruno Magli has an interest in.”