Out of the darkness came the light — and the lightning rods.
After the tough times of 2009, when most footwear executives cut costs, slashed inventories and braced for the worst of the recession, this year was a different story. Corporate leaders began to regroup, restrategize and return to finding innovative ways to conquer the retail market. It’s no wonder footwear has been a leading category, rebounding much faster than apparel and, oftentimes, saving the bottom lines of department stores.
Christian Louboutin continued to set the pace, with styles women couldn’t stop from buying and new boutique openings. He kept consumers excited, and in doing so inadvertently became the face of post-recession luxury, a big reason he rose to the No. 2 spot on this year’s Power 100 list. Neil Cole, too, jumped in the ranking, after partnering with Madonna’s Material Girl label, as well as securing the rights to the Peanuts comic-strip characters.
Meanwhile, others fell. Consider Kevin Plank and his Under Armour brand, which is retooling its running product after weak footwear sales.
As in every year, new players earned their places on the list, such as Scott Savitz, who has grown Shoebuy.com into an e-tail force, attracting 6.5 million monthly visitors and chalking up $180 million in sales. J.Crew’s Mickey Drexler also joined the industry’s elite this year, after making footwear a larger focus for the company and teaming with Alden, Minnetonka and New Balance for interesting collaborations. And Tony Post, too, made the cut after turning Vibram’s FiveFingers style into a footwear movement.
To measure the market heft and influence of each executive on the list, Footwear News studied all sides of the industry — from discounters to luxury houses — to determine who is having the biggest impact on the shoe industry. Sales figures and earnings, of course, factored into the decision process, but so did new store openings, line extensions, collaborations, fashion clout, innovative product, revamped business strategies and, of course, the all-important buzz factor.
What follows is a ranking of the industry’s most powerful influencers — those who not only survived the recession but are shaping the footwear landscape in its wake.
November 1, 2010
2010 FN Power 100
Creativity, entrepreneurship and a bit of risk taking are defining this year's group of leaders. Find out who's got the power.
-
1. Phil Knight, Mark Parker
Rank 1
Chairman; President, CEO; Nike Inc.
2009 Rank: 1
At Nike’s first investor meeting since 2007, Knight, 72, and Parker, 55, unveiled a plan to grow the firm’s $19.2 billion in sales to $27 billion by 2015. Key to the effort: buying back international distribution for affiliate brands including Cole Haan and Converse; rolling out new retail concepts such as the ones opened this year in Santa Monica, Calif., and at the Roosevelt Field mall in Garden City, N.Y.; and opening concept shops with Finish Line and Dick’s Sporting Goods, as well as an expanded e-commerce push.
Power Players: Charlie Denson, president, Nike Brand; Michael Spillane, CEO, Converse; Dave McTague, CEO, Cole Haan -
2. Christian Louboutin
Rank 2
Designer, Principal; Christian Louboutin
2009 Rank: 5
Double-digit growth isn’t the only way to assess Louboutin’s soaring status. In fact, everyone in Hollywood to Hong Kong appears to be clamoring for his iconic red soles. Perhaps most notable is that through the recession — and in the months since — Louboutin continued to be an ambassador of modern luxury. His attention-grabbing heels proved to be all the rage when thousands of consumers voted Louboutin’s Maralena shoe the winner of Saks Fifth Avenue and FN’s Sexy Shoes contest in October. Meanwhile, on the retail front, the designer is providing more spots to find him: His number of stores will have grown to 32 by January 2011, from 21 at the start of this year. -
3. Blake Nordstrom, Pete Nordstrom
Rank 3
President; President of merchandising; Nordstrom Inc.
2009 Rank: 2
What a difference a year makes. Following the recession, Nordstrom has registered strong same-store sales increases every month this year, including a 16.8 percent surge in March. For the half-year ended July 31, the group earned $262 million, up 41 percent from 2009. Blake, 50, and Pete, 48, concentrated on working with partners to deliver fashion newness. As a result, their company saw growth across all shoe categories, particularly in women’s. The firm now operates 202 stores in the U.S.
Power Players: Erik Nordstrom, president, stores; Scott Meden, GMM, shoe division; Jeffrey Kalinsky, EVP, designer merchandising -
4. Ron Fromm, Diane Sullivan
Rank 4
CEO, Chairman; President, COO; Brown Shoe Co.
2009 Rank: 4
This duo clearly knows how to recognize opportunity. Take their full acquisition of Sam Edelman in May, which added one of the industry’s hottest brands to Brown Shoe’s roster. Fromm, 59, and Sullivan, 54, also tapped into the red-hot toning and wellness trend with the launch of the Mind Body Sole retail concept last month and reached out to the eco-conscious consumer with Naya, a new sustainable shoe line. Overall, the company has fared well this year, reporting double-digit sales increases in both retail and wholesale during its second quarter. Famous Footwear, which is marking 50 years, has benefited from trend-right product and fewer markdowns.
Power Players: Rick Ausick, president, Famous Footwear; Mark Lardie, president, wholesale; Dan Friedman, president, wholesale product & sourcing; Jay Schmidt, SVP, better & image brands; Sam Edelman, president, Edelman Shoe; Libby Edelman, SVP, creative director, Edelman Shoe -
5. Matt Rubel
Rank 5
Chairman, President, CEO; Collective Brands Inc.
2009 Rank: 3
Global expansion was a big priority for Rubel, 53, this year, and his strategy has helped offset challenges with the domestic Payless ShoeSource segment. Two weeks ago, the retailer struck franchise deals in four new markets — Indonesia, Mexico, Malaysia and Singapore — and Payless has built up its base in Latin America. Expect the footprint to get even bigger: The retailer hopes to have 700 stores overseas in the next five years and 1,400 in the long term. The wholesale business, meanwhile, shone this year, with Saucony and Sperry Top-Sider leading the way and the Keds turnaround taking shape. Rubel is also making waves in Washington, D.C. In September, the Obama administration appointed him to the Advisory Committee for Trade Policy & Negotiations.
Power Players: LuAnn Via, president, CEO, Payless ShoeSource; Gregg Ribatt, president, CEO, Collective Brands Performance & Lifestyle Group; Bruce Pettet, president, CEO, Collective Licensing -
6. Terry Lundgren
Rank 6
Chairman, President, CEO; Macy’s Inc.
2009 Rank: 6
Under Lundgren, 58, Macy’s again let its red star shine. It continued to embrace high-profile collaborations and has been successful getting the word out about them, thanks to new star-studded TV commercials. Additionally, Macy’s became the exclusive retailer for juniors’ line Material Girl, designed by Madonna and produced by Iconix Brand Group Inc. Separately, the company, which has 850 doors, also debuted its first set of four Bloomingdale’s bargain-priced outlet stores this summer, and bowed a Bloomingdale’s in Dubai, in the United Arab Emirates.
Power Player: Michael Gould, chairman, CEO, Bloomingdale’s -
7. Jeff Bezos, Tony Hsieh
Rank 7
Founder, Chairman, CEO, President; Amazon.com; CEO; Zappos.com
2009 Rank: 7 (Hsieh only)
Amazon’s Kindle might be king, but footwear is clicking for the online behemoth. The firm reported sales gains of 40 percent in the third quarter, due in large part to the addition of Zappos. And Bezos, 46, can thank Hsieh, 35, for keeping the quirky e-tailer in the spotlight. The new author’s book, “Delivering Happiness,” has dominated bestseller lists since its May release. With more fans than ever, Hsieh and his team continue to expand Zappos beyond footwear into apparel, accessories and home. Amazon is also broadening into new territory, launching last month an exclusive Heidi Klum for New Balance activewear line, which will include shoes for spring.
Power Players: Fred Mossler, head, merchandising, Zappos; Maria Renz, VP, shoes & accessories, Amazon & Endless.com -
8. Ken Hicks
Rank 8
Chairman, CEO; Foot Locker Inc.
2009 Rank: 8
Since taking over the top post from Matt Serra, who retired in January, Hicks, 57, put the athletic retailer on a fresh merchandising path. He’s wooing new types of consumers with more running, toning and skating product, and driving sales by boosting the firm’s branded and private-label athletic apparel. The chief’s five-year plan to hit $6 billion in annual sales — up from $4.9 billion in 2009 — includes broadening Foot Locker’s international store base by 50 percent, mainly in Europe.
Power Players: Richard Johnson, president, CEO, Foot Locker U.S., Footaction, Kids Foot Locker, Lady Foot Locker; Ron Halls, president, CEO, Foot Locker International -
9. Wes Card, Richard Dickson
Rank 9
CEO; President, CEO, branded businesses; The Jones Group
2009 Rank: 13
The Jones Group has been at the center of this year’s biggest deals. Card, 62, and Dickson, 42, instantly upped the company’s design cred in May by scoring a 55 percent stake in Stuart Weitzman. And a few months later, the firm nabbed one of the industry’s hottest young talents, Brian Atwood, to design a contemporary line. Under Dickson, who came aboard in January from Mattel, the firm aims to bring in more new blood as it grows beyond its apparel roots — consider Jones’ recent corporate renaming. The company also continues to nurture Nine West and its other core footwear brands, notable bright spots during the recession.
Power Players: Rick Paterno, group president, footwear; Fred Allard, creative director, Nine West; Ron Offir, president, Jones Direct; Stacy Lastrina, chief marketing officer -
10. Mike Duke
Rank 10
President, CEO; Wal-Mart Stores Inc.
2009 Rank: 9
Duke knows how to pinch pennies. The exec, 60, tightened the reins on expenses during the year, leading to a 9.7 percent increase in net income. His company then announced plans to trim fat even more, by lowering capital spending by $1 billion for this and next fiscal year. For 2011, Walmart is rolling out 30 to 40 stores and growing internationally. The retailer has plans to enter South Africa and Sub-Saharan Africa next year, as well as to grow in Japan, Argentina and Chile.
Power Players: Eduardo Castro-Wright, vice chairman; Marshal Cohen, president, CEO, Wal-Mart U.S. -
11. Steve Madden, Ed Rosenfeld
Rank 11
Creative & Design Chief; Chairman, CEO; Steven Madden Ltd.
2009 Rank: 16
Steve Madden appeared to be playing banker this year, and his actions are creating some serious buzz. Madden, 53, and Rosenfeld, 34, last month took over a loan for Betsey Johnson, giving them ownership of the designer’s intellectual property. And in August, Madden’s firm invested $5 million in Bakers Footwear Group, bringing its equity interest in the retailer to nearly 20 percent. On its own, the company continued to stand out for its unrelenting successes, whether that was producing the footwear for Madonna’s just-launched Material Girl line or buying Big Buddha handbags and expanding the brand into shoes.
Power Player: Robert Schmertz, brand director -
12. Herbert Hainer
Rank 12
Chairman, CEO; Adidas Group
2009 Rank: 11
Hainer, 56, credited the World Cup with driving sales for Adidas during the first half of 2010. And Reebok’s renaissance, led by its twin technologies of EasyTone and ZigTech, has galvanized the bottom line. However, inflationary pressures loom in 2011, and Reebok just lost its NFL apparel contract to Nike. Look for a focus on the North American business next year.
Power Players: Erich Stamminger, head, global brands; Uli Becker, president, Reebok; Michael Rupp, president, CEO, Rockport -
13. Blake Krueger
Rank 13
Chairman, President, CEO; Wolverine World Wide Inc.
2009 Rank: 14
Krueger, 56, spent the year restructuring the company’s Outdoor division — containing Merrell, Patagonia Footwear and Chaco — and installing a new executive framework, all to take the Merrell brand to $1 billion, from $450 million, in the next few years. The exec also wants to grow the footwear wholesale business at least twice as fast as the rest of the industry, and double its international retail accounts. So far so good: Wolverine’s Q3 earnings surged 27 percent.
Power Player: James Zwiers, SVP, president, Outdoor Group -
14. Robert Greenberg, Michael Greenberg
Rank 14
Chairman, CEO; President; Skechers USA Inc.
2009 Rank: 10
Skechers clearly benefited from the run-up in toning’s popularity, but some analysts have questioned the longevity of the category. Nevertheless, Robert, 68, and Michael, 47, are sticking with it. The father-son team started the year with a Super Bowl ad featuring NFL legend Joe Montana, followed by the first Shape-ups store, opened in the Santa Monica Place mall in August. Next up: Former NBA greats Karl Malone and Kareem Abdul-Jabbar will promote the label. Skechers also recently inked licensing deals to make backpacks and leather accessories, and bowed a 1.8 million-sq.-ft. distribution center last spring.
Power Player: David Weinberg, COO, CFO -
15. Jim Davis, Rob DeMartini
Rank 15
Chairman; CEO; New Balance
2009 Rank: 12
With DeMartini, 49, at the helm, New Balance has expanded from the running company that Davis, 67, first created, making inroads in toning and wellness with its True Balance and Rock ’n’ Tone launches. New Balance also launched the high-profile Heidi Klum apparel line with Amazon.com. But the firm has been challenged in the independent channel, with brands such as Brooks and Saucony taking share. To counter that, it created the barefoot running-focused Minimus collection, hitting next year, which has already gotten a warm response, as has high-tech product developed in-house.
Power Player: Anne Davis, vice chairman -
16. Manolo Blahnik, George Malkemus
Rank 16
Designer; President; Manolo Blahnik USA
2009 Rank: 15
Blahnik, 67, snagged some major time in the spotlight this year with his highly anticipated “World of Manolo” pop-up shop at Liberty of London. Shoes reigned supreme, pairing archived Liberty prints with Blahnik’s sleek style, but the designer also tackled new categories, including umbrellas, cushions, candles and a new book of sketches. Malkemus, 56, and Blahnik are also expanding with wholesale partners across the U.S. and online, bolstering the handbag collection. And they grew the branded door count with shop openings in Russia, Luxembourg, Israel and Lebanon.
Power Player: Kristina Blahnik, deputy managing director, Manolo Blahnik International -
17. Giuseppe Zanotti
Rank 17
President; Vicini SpA
2009 Rank: 17
Zanotti is reaching new heights, and not just with towering stilettos. This year he launched jewelry, sneakers and a bridal collection, all while restyling his brand’s website and uncorking an online store. Zanotti’s Milan showroom also got a makeover. New stores in Dubai and Moscow brought his total to 57, and he’s gearing up for four more shops by the end of 2011. Meanwhile, on the design front, Zanotti, 53, is collaborating with Italian luxury brand Vionnet. No wonder business was up 11 percent in 2010, with revenues to top 71 million euros. -
18. Tamara Mellon, Joshua Schulman
Rank 18
Founder, Chief Creative Officer; CEO; Jimmy Choo
2009 Rank: 20
The duo’s clever brand strategy is paying off. Mellon, 43, and Schulman, 39, continued to ignite buzz with out-of-the-box partnerships, such as the co-branded line with Ugg that hit last month. Another big focus: the rollout of Choo 24:7, an updated line of classics that has resonated with post-recession consumers. The brand is also flexing its retail muscle, with a focus on Europe and fast-growing markets Asia and Latin America. Next year, Choo will mark 15 years, and its private-equity owners, TowerBrook Capital, might celebrate by cashing out. The group said recently it was exploring options for the company. -
19. Vince Camuto
Rank 19
Founder, Chief Designer, CEO; Camuto Group
2009 Rank: 19
Thanks to major expansion within the Vince Camuto and Jessica Simpson brands, business for Camuto, 74, is up fivefold from 2009. This year, the Vince Camuto label bowed handbags, coats and belts, and has plans for eyewear, jewelry, fragrance and cold-weather accessories in 2011. Twenty branded stores opened internationally, with 60 more coming next year and 150 outlet stores over the next three years. Jessica Simpson debuted intimates, a denim line and her third fragrance, and sportswear is on deck. Shoes are still a major part of the business, though, and the Camuto brand shipped its 2 millionth pair in 2010.
Power Players: Bob Galvin, president; Louise Camuto, president, marketing; Jeff Howald, CFO; Alex DelCielo, COO -
20. Stephen Sadove, Ron Frasch
Rank 20
Executive Chairman, CEO; President, Chief Merchandising Officer; Saks Inc.
2009 Rank: 21
Saks Inc. recently got a serious vote of confidence. Tod’s Chairman Diego Della Valle last month upped his stake in the company to 19.1 percent, becoming Saks’ biggest shareholder. The 105-door Saks Fifth Avenue chain has been posting a steady stream of comparable-store sales increases without resorting to discounting. Under the charge of Sadove, 59, and Frasch, 62, Saks slashed expenses by $110 million this year, closed underperforming stores and opened five new ones overseas, including its second licensed Saks location in Mexico City.
-
01
Phil Knight, Mark Parker
Rank 1
-
02
Christian Louboutin
Rank 2
-
03
Blake Nordstrom, Pete Nordstrom
Rank 3
-
04
Ron Fromm, Diane Sullivan
Rank 4
-
05
Matt Rubel
Rank 5
-
06
Terry Lundgren
Rank 6
-
07
Jeff Bezos, Tony Hsieh
Rank 7
-
08
Ken Hicks
Rank 8
-
09
Wes Card, Richard Dickson
Rank 9
-
10
Mike Duke
Rank 10
-
11
Steve Madden, Ed Rosenfeld
Rank 11
-
12
Herbert Hainer
Rank 12
-
13
Blake Krueger
Rank 13
-
14
Robert Greenberg, Michael Greenberg
Rank 14
-
15
Jim Davis, Rob DeMartini
Rank 15
-
16
Manolo Blahnik, George Malkemus
Rank 16
-
17
Giuseppe Zanotti
Rank 17
-
18
Tamara Mellon, Joshua Schulman
Rank 18
-
19
Vince Camuto
Rank 19
-
20
Stephen Sadove, Ron Frasch
Rank 20
-
21
Karen Katz
Rank 21
-
22
Eric Wiseman
Rank 22
-
23
Bob Dennis
Rank 23
-
24
Diego Della Valle
Rank 24
-
25
Neil Cole
Rank 25
-
26
François-Henri Pinault, Jochen Zeitz
Rank 26
-
27
Marc Jacobs
Rank 27
-
28
Miuccia Prada
Rank 28
-
29
Angel Martinez
Rank 29
-
30
Glenn Lyon
Rank 30
-
31
Kevin Mansell
Rank 31
-
32
Jay Schottenstein, Michael MacDonald
Rank 32
-
33
Nobuo Oda
Rank 33
-
34
Mark Lee
Rank 34
-
35
Kenneth Cole, Jill Granoff
Rank 35
-
36
Jeffrey Swartz
Rank 36
-
37
Gregg Steinhafel
Rank 37
-
38
Stuart Weitzman
Rank 38
-
39
Neil Clifford
Rank 39
-
40
Pierre Hardy
Rank 40
-
41
Myron Ullman
Rank 41
-
42
Mindy Grossman
Rank 42
-
43
Jim Issler
Rank 43
-
44
Bob Campbell
Rank 44
-
45
Nicholas Kirkwood
Rank 45
-
46
Lew Frankfort, Reed Krakoff
Rank 46
-
47
Mike George
Rank 47
-
48
Carol Meyrowitz
Rank 48
-
49
Peter Harris
Rank 49
-
50
Tarek Hassan, Sam Hassan
Rank 50
-
51
Rick Darling
Rank 51
-
52
Aldo Bensadoun
Rank 52
-
53
Michael Kors
Rank 53
-
54
Brian Atwood
Rank 54
-
55
Bob Goldman
Rank 55
-
56
Danny Wasserman
Rank 56
-
57
Daniel Schwartz
Rank 57
-
58
Isack Fadlon
Rank 58
-
59
Ralph Lauren
Rank 59
-
60
R. Stephen Rubin, Andy Rubin
Rank 60
-
61
Scott Savitz
Rank 61
-
62
Jules Schneider
Rank 62
-
63
Massimo Ferragamo, Vincent Ottomanelli
Rank 63
-
64
Edward Stack
Rank 64
-
65
Tim Belk
Rank 65
-
66
Stanley Silver, Patti Silver
Rank 66
-
67
Millard "Mickey" Drexler
Rank 67
-
68
Bob Infantino
Rank 68
-
69
Alexis Maybank, Alexandra Wilkis Wilson
Rank 69
-
70
John Varvatos
Rank 70
-
71
Kevin Plank
Rank 71
-
72
Steven Nichols
Rank 72
-
73
Tony Post
Rank 73
-
74
Jack Silvera
Rank 74
-
75
Blake Mycoskie
Rank 75
-
76
Peter Hanig
Rank 76
-
77
Wayne Weaver
Rank 77
-
78
Scott Silverstein
Rank 78
-
79
Marc Fisher
Rank 79
-
80
Karl-Johan Persson
Rank 80
-
81
Brendan Hoffman
Rank 81
-
82
Tim Boyle
Rank 82
-
83
Mario Polegato
Rank 83
-
84
William Dillard
Rank 84
-
85
William Snowden, Bill Snowden Jr.
Rank 85
-
86
Jerry Turner
Rank 86
-
87
Marcia Kilgore
Rank 87
-
88
Joe Ouaknine
Rank 88
-
89
Dennis Lazar
Rank 89
-
90
Rick Cytrynbaum
Rank 90
-
91
Glenn Murphy
Rank 91
-
92
Natalie Massenet
Rank 92
-
93
Mark Weber
Rank 93
-
94
Tom Raynor, Jeff Phillips
Rank 94
-
95
Pierre-André Senizergues
Rank 95
-
96
David Zaken
Rank 96
-
97
Michael Katz
Rank 97
-
98
Jim Weber
Rank 98
-
99
Gene Yoon, Jon Epstein
Rank 99
-
100
Richard Cofinco, Robert Nand
Rank 100
Ads by Google








ADD A COMMENT
Sign in using your Facebook or Twitter account, or simply type your comment below as a guest by entering your email and name. Your email address will not be shared.