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Sole Saver... Testing Metal... Art Scrolls...

From backstage to the front row, Footwear News goes behind the runways in Milan.

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Sole Saver

After a big-name shoe designer failed to deliver its wares for the Pringle of Scotland runway, Georgina Goodman stepped in. At the last minute, the designer provided pumps and ankle boots with fall’s must-have skinny heels. It wasn’t Goodman’s only shining moment, as her shoes treaded the boards in New York, at Tommy Hilfiger, and in London she worked with Sienna Miller and her sister on footwear for their Twenty8Twelve show. Added to it was her co-branded Luella by Georgina Goodman collection, as well as shoes for Erdem, both now in their second season. If all that wasn’t enough, in the coming week Goodman’s work will make one more appearance: on the Alexander McQueen runway.

Testing Metal

Two designers unveiled metal heels that were anything but heavy. Over at Bally, filigree surfaced on a selection of accessories, including caged-heel ankle boots fashioned in a mix of suede and leather. Creative director Brian Atwood said he revived the intricate art of filigree after tapping Florentine artisans who specialized in the craft. Meanwhile, Gianvito Rossi showed two styles that featured a caged-steel heel treated with black lacquer. “I wanted something special, and an interesting structure that doesn’t destroy a woman’s silhouette,” explained Rossi.

Art Scrolls

Nicholas Kirkwood’s scrolled heels were the statement pieces of his shoe collection for Pollini. Footwear’s man-of-the-moment said he followed the lead of creative director and fellow Brit Jonathan Saunders, who used the same Baroque-inspired pattern on fabrics in the brand’s ready-to-wear. “I printed the same design onto plastic and created my own scroll heel,” said Kirkwood, who added the show also had many riding-inspired references, including a classic Pollini equestrian boot silhouette that he pulled from the company’s archive.

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