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NY Fashion Week: Retailer Reactions

What buyers think about the fall footwear showcased in New York.

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What buyers think about the fall footwear showcased in New York.

Kenneth Downing, SVP & Fashion Director, Neiman Marcus
Strongest Trends:
• Statement-making shoes with aggressive attitude, such as platforms, high sculptural heels and thicker heels.
• The bootie and boot with 1980s references look newer when they are closer to the ankle.
• Buckles, chains and urban details give a strong downtown attitude.
• Color returns to footwear with purples and reds.
• Metallics and shine remain important
Directional Styles: “Rodarte’s smoky gray boot with straps all the way up the leg to the thigh.”
Buying Strategy: “We are at market looking for newness and innovation. It is the most important thing and will bring the customer into the store.”

Jeffrey Kalinsky, Founder, Jeffrey New York & Atlanta; Director of Designer Merchandising, Nordstrom
Strongest Trends: “Very aggressive footwear. There was a combat feeling, a motorcycle feeling, even bondage. A tough-chic approach to footwear.”
Buying Strategy: “I’m doing what I’ve always done: Buying with emotion and a point of view gives retailers a point of difference. But I am buying significantly less.”
Ones to Watch: “Proenza Schouler’s footwear gets better season after season, Alexander Wang is really getting into it. I am sure he will have a successful shoe business.”

Liz Rodbell, SVP & GMM of Shoes, Lord & Taylor
Strongest Trends:
• Opened-up bootie.
• Lace-up boot.
• Heavy straps on shoes and boots.
• Almost all collections have extreme platforms.
Directional Styles: “Booties with details — whether they are straps or lacing.”
Buying Strategy: “We will have open-toe styles further into the fall season this year.”

Paula Landry, Owner, Victoria’s Shoes, New Orleans
Favorite Trends: “I love the use of knitwear mixed into the boot or pump, and it’s a good way to be green instead of choosing fur trims.”
Ones to Watch: Omelle.
Buying Strategy: “No one will feel the need to replace a boot or a handbag this fall, so I am bringing in more over-the-top looks that women will fall in love with and won’t have already — no guilt shopping.”