Women’s Wear Daily
04.17.2014
business
business

The Jones Report: Inside the Reinvention

The company is working hard to transform with a fresh focus on shoes.

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Nine West Richard Dickson

Richard Dickson

Photo By John Aquino

Stuart Weitzman’s Soho store

Photo By Courtesy Photo

[Editor's Note: This article went to print before Monday's announcement that Stefani Greenfield has resigned as chief creative officer of The Jones Group. She will now serve as global creative consultant at the firm and work on projects for her private consulting group. Click here for more.]

On a Thursday morning last month, five key executives from The Jones Group Inc. gathered for a photo shoot at the company’s midtown Manhattan headquarters. Three years ago, none of them would have been in the picture.

Corporate heads Richard Dickson, Stefani Greenfield and Kathy Nedorostek, along with Stuart Weitzman execs Wayne Kulkin and Susan Duffy, represent the new guard at the company. They’re brand builders and marketers who are obsessed with footwear — and they are leading the dramatic, much-talked-about metamorphosis of the $3.8 billion firm.

There’s no doubt that Jones is a vastly different organization than it was just a few years ago. Once known primarily for its volume-driven apparel business and manufacturing prowess, the Jones team is determined to evolve from a “product-selling organization” to a company led by design, according to Dickson, the president and CEO of branded businesses.

“[In the past], it was very easy for us to do any [category] and put any label on it,” said Dickson, who was hired by Jones CEO Wesley Card in 2010. “But the world moved on to having a relationship with brands.”

That’s why the executive and his team are focused on a major overhaul of the firm’s core labels: Nine West and Jones New York.

But Dickson also aspires for the company to be recognized as the place to be for emerging brands and as a home for businesses trying to get to the next level, particularly in the accessories space.

So the firm embarked on an acquisition spree, snapping up three major footwear firms — Stuart Weitzman, Brian Atwood and Kurt Geiger —in three years. “There is no doubt that the accessory cluster of our business — footwear, handbags, jewelry — is the growth category. It’s where the action is in the industry. So we’re trying to bring in the talent and grow with the trend,” Dickson said.

RELATED STORY: Kurt Geiger's Big Plans for America >>

The new focus is evident in Jones’ financial results. Today, Nine West is the firm’s largest brand, and footwear and accessories are the biggest revenue contributors, generating 52 percent of sales in 2012, compared with 48 percent in 2011.

While apparel has continued to drag down overall results, footwear has helped counteract some of that weakness. (Overall, the firm reported a net loss of $56.1 million last year.)

Last Friday, shares of Jones rose 5.9 percent on word that activist investor Barington Capital, which owns about 2 percent of the company's stock, had taken a stake in the firm and was pushing for it to sell off some smaller brands, cut costs, add directors to the board and tighten up operations. According to the Wall Street Journal, Barington urged Jones to hire financial advisers to focus on its core and emerging brands, since it is benefiting from a shift to higher-end brands with the acquisition of names such as Stuart Weitzman and Kurt Geiger.

The shoe momentum is impressive, but there are still challenges ahead, particularly with the unpredictable nature of the economy.

“There was a time when you could track retail sales with the stock market,” Dickson said. “Now we see a robust stock market, but a tough retail market.”

Jones, which has made international expansion a priority, remains conservative about its near-term plays overseas.

“The trials and tribulations in Europe give us a reason to pause. We’re incredibly excited about Asia, but the dynamics are changing. You really have to have the right local talent,” Dickson said.

While there is plenty of hard work ahead, the new team is clearly up for the challenge.

“I can’t believe how far we’ve already come. Everywhere I go, people are talking about what we’re doing,” said Greenfield, who joined in late 2011 as chief creative officer.

At the Core
“We Do Shoe.”

It’s the simple, yet memorable, mantra that is the cornerstone of Nine West’s makeover strategy.

While the label has always had “enormous reach,” according to Dickson, “it wasn’t really narrating to the consumer what it was about.”

To change that, the team is working on a top-to-bottom revamp of the brand.

With a bold flagship revamp, updated product, catchy marketing and a new digital push, the refreshed Nine West aims to be “a democratic fashion brand for all,” Dickson added.

“When we started to dig into it, we worried about trying to be everything to everybody,” he said. “Instead of getting riddled with it, we’re celebrating it. But, to be democratic, you can’t have one representation of the brand. So the goal was to segment it and tell the different stories.”

Those stories come alive in the company’s “Nine & the Gang” advertising campaign, as well as in the relaunched Lexington Avenue flagship in New York, unveiled last fall.

Large LCD screens in the center of the store are surrounded by product walls that highlight specific categories. “The World of Pumps” is one major theme, while there also are “bars” for ballet flats and boots, in addition to dedicated areas for the key trend statements of the season. “Consumers like what they see in terms of merchandise and marketing,” said Nedorostek, group president of global footwear and accessories at Jones. “They understand what the brand represents now.”

Jones plans to roll out the concept to other locations globally, and that’s good news according to industry analyst Jennifer Black of Jennifer Black & Associates. “Nine West has had ... less than glowing results in its full-priced stores [in the last year] due primarily to product mix,” she said.

As it re-energizes the retail fleet, Nine West is taking its new message to the digital space, most notably through its Channel 9 network, which mixes original content with e-commerce. Current “episodes” on the site include “Dressed to the 9’s,” where hosts critique red-carpet style, and “Shoe Hoarders,” which goes inside the homes of footwear fanatics. While there’s always a Nine West hook to each storyline, Channel 9 celebrates shoes in general, even touting other brands.

“[Channel 9] and all our social media efforts are uncovering huge opportunity and [fueling] the resurgence of a younger audience for the brand,” Dickson said. To date, Channel 9 has amassed more than 100,000 subscribers and 5.6 million views across the network since launching in August.

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