Retailers React to Milan Collections

Prada and Marni were among the standouts for footwear.

Top buyers weigh in on the spring footwear trends in Milan

Rebecca Farrar-Hockley
, Buying & Creative Director, Kurt Geiger, London

Strongest Trends: “The biggest footwear trends from Milan came less from the runway and more from the showrooms. ... City-appropriate espadrilles will be key for spring ’10. Tod’s collection [was] exceptional, particularly the trend-right colors and materials on [the brand’s] iconic driver. Jimmy Choo’s 24/7 range showed perfect timing and [should be] exciting for both retailers and consumers.”

Directional Styles: “The most embellished — and best — runway shoe was done by Prada, with the smattering of playful crystals adorned [on] a sportier, low-heeled sandal, rather than on an aggressive, traditional [and] overtly sexy shape.”

Shift in Buying Strategy: “Our buying strategy for next season will incorporate real balance and choice for our customer. We are at an interlude, and our fashion customer — by her nature a chameleon — will want more choice
and variety than before, [whether] that’s sky-high, leg-lengthening platforms, a new casual, easy-to-wear aesthetic or an element of [the] playful.”

Barbara Atkin, VP & Fashion Director, Holt Renfrew

Strongest Trends: “We have yet to see what the runway in Paris will bring us, but [based on what we saw in Milan], the open-laced strappy shoe, the bootie and the platform seem to be three trends we will follow up on for spring ’10. The androgynous shoe continues to have a presence, as does the summer wedge in varying heights, materials and constructions.”

“Must-Carry” Styles from Milan:
• A Lucite clog from Prada
• Kitten-heeled and clog-inspired sandals from Marni
• Anything sky-high from Gucci

Ones to Watch: “For spring ’10, we will be introducing Camilla Skovgaard. [Her] designs are at a great entry-level designer price point and have amazing, innovative constructions, with zig-zag platform soles, hardware and sexy detailing, which makes them a perfect option to take our client from day to night.”

Holli Rogers, Buying Director,

Strongest Trends: “We will all be wearing platforms next summer. There were so many incarnations [on the runway in Milan], but they all had one thing in common: super-high and super-stacked, with not a stiletto heel in sight.”

Directional Styles: “Marni paired [wedges] with a knee sock, and Milan stalwart Burberry — although showing in London this year — also chose to pair chunky platforms with built-in ankle socks. So cool and easy to wear. Fendi [showcased] super-high [wedges] with ribbon ties, [while] Bottega Veneta’s high-wedge platforms had an espadrille feel.”

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