It's about power and the powers that be.
In 2012, the footwear industry was defined by the dominant figures that led with a steady hand and by the economic forces that influenced their decisions.
Footwear News’ annual ranking — in a reimagined, faster-to-read format — has its share of winning feats, such as major acquisitions and global expansion, and a few flops, including athlete scandals, legal tussles and folded labels. Some people rose on the list due to savvy business moves and a deft read on market trends. Others fell victim to Europe’s economic woes and sourcing troubles in China. And some names from prior years are absent, either because they stepped down from their posts or their businesses were bought.
To measure the true market power of those in the industry, FN editors pored over sales and earnings data, line launches, store openings, advertising campaigns and star-studded collaborations. Also taken into account was how much clout brands and designers have with consumers.
Read on to find out who holds the power and how they’re using it.
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21. Bob Dennis, 58
Chairman, President, CEO; Genesco Inc.
2011 Rank: 22
Market Grab: The Schuh chain continues to thrive in the U.K. and will have bowed 17 new stores by year’s end. Revenue: In the first half, Genesco’s Journeys Group saw sales rise 10.3 percent, while Lids Sports and Johnston & Murphy have increased 5.1 percent and 6.5 percent, respectively. Sales Chart: The company smashed analysts’ estimates in Q2, earning 50 cents a share instead of the expected 27 cents. Power Player: Jim Estepa, SVP, Genesco; president, CEO, Genesco Retail Group -
22. Diego Della Valle, 58
Chairman, CEO; Tod’s SpA
2011 Rank: 25
Growth Spurt: First-half sales spiked nearly 10 percent to $626 million, with $468 million of that from shoes. C-Suite: Versace alum Roberto Lorenzini was installed as head of the group’s North American operations, while Derek Lam departed his post as Tod’s creative director. New Digs: Roger Vivier bowed its third U.S. location, in Costa Mesa, Calif. Up Next: Schiaparelli, owned by Della Valle, relaunches next year, with shoes a key part of the offering. Power Player: Bruno Frisoni, creative director, Roger Vivier -
23. François-Henri Pinault, 50; Franz Koch, 33
Chairman, CEO, PPR; CEO, Puma SE
2011 Rank: 23
Corner Office: Earlier this month, group managing director of PPR SA Jean-François Palus was named chairman of the administrative board at Puma SE following the resignation of Jochen Zeitz. Revenue: Puma’s net income has dropped 42.8 percent year-to-date to $144.6 million, as the firm continues to restructure and deal with challenges in China. Hot Retail Concept: A Puma sustainable store debuted in India in August. Channel Marker: Partnering with Internet retailer Yoox, PPR is developing new e-commerce platforms for its Bottega Veneta, Yves Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga and Sergio Rossi brands. -
24. Giuseppe Zanotti, 55
President; Vicini SpA
2011 Rank: 20
Bottom Line: While other big-name designers have generated more buzz, Zanotti’s sales are still up 10 percent from last year, and the company is projected to exceed overall expectations for 2012. Launch Pad: In response to the hot fashion athletics trend, Zanotti debuted sneakers. He also unveiled his first complete men’s collection. Global Push: The company boosted its Japanese presence through a distribution deal with Bluebell Japan. Star Power: A collaboration with Kanye West on super-luxe stilettos garnered major press attention. -
25. Neil Cole, 55
Chairman, President, CEO; Iconix Brand Group Inc.
2011 Rank: 24
Shopping List: Last week, the company snapped up the Umbro brand from Nike for $225 million. Power Couple: The growth of the Material Girl business at Macy’s led to a partnership with Aldo to launch MG Icon’s second brand, Truth or Dare. The company also struck a deal with German e-tailer Otto Group to retail Material Girl across Europe. Game Plan: A new joint venture with Reliance Brands Ltd. in India will introduce the Ed Hardy, Mossimo, London Fog and Ocean Pacific brands to the country. Similar partnerships are being considered for China, Europe and Latin America. Power Players: David Blumberg, EVP, head of strategic development; Dari Marder, chief marketing officer; Yehuda Shmidman, COO -
26. Glenn Lyon, 62
Chairman, CEO; Finish Line Inc.
2011 Rank: 29
Partner Up: In September, the retailer unveiled an ambitious deal with Macy’s that will give Finish Line control of the department store’s athletic footwear business and allow it to open 450 Finish Line shop-in-shops in select Macy’s doors. Also, Finish Line’s Running Co. business — operated with Gart Capital — acquired the Run On! chain and launched Run.com. Wild Card: The firm’s $90 million, omnichannel-focused bet could pay off in the long term, but analysts are wary of big upfront capital investments. Power Players: Sam Sato, president, Finish Line brand; Steven Schneider, president, COO -
27. Michael MacDonald, 61; Debbie Ferrée, 59
President, CEO; Vice Chairman, Chief Merchandising Officer; DSW Inc.
2011 Rank: 30
Open for Business: The retailer nearly doubled its typical annual store openings, with 38 units set to bow by January 2013, including its first in Puerto Rico. Revenue: First-half sales increased more than 9 percent, to $1.07 billion, while same-store sales rose 6 percent. Channel Marker: The company’s new Shoephoria system allows store associates to access its fulfillment center via the Internet and place consumer orders on the spot. Power Player: Jay Schottenstein, chairman -
28. Miuccia Prada, 63
Designer, President; Prada, Miu Miu
2011 Rank: 28
For Profit: The group has been going strong with a 59.5 percent increase in first-half net income, reaching $372.3 million. Sales for that period rose 36.5 percent. Open for Business: Prada bowed 26 branded stores in the first half of 2012 and plans to open roughly 240 additional locations over the next three years. Hot List: The designer made the art-world rounds with the Metropolitan Museum of Art exhibition “Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada: Impossible Conversations,” as well as Francesco Vezzoli’s pop-up “24 Hour Museum,” a collaboration with the fashion house in Paris. Power Player: Patrizio Bertelli, CEO -
29. Angel Martinez, 57
Chairman, President, CEO; Deckers Outdoor Corp.
2011 Rank: 27
Leaning Forward: While some industry watchers have wondered out loud about the perceived erosion of the brand, Ugg Australia powered ahead with 30 branded store openings globally, including its first men’s-only door in New York. Eight more units are expected by year’s end. Battleground: Deckers hit back at Ugg counterfeiters with a $686 million victory in lawsuits against thousands of Chinese websites. Secret Plans: The company, which turns 40 next year, will move into a new 20-acre corporate campus in Goleta, Calif. Power Players: Connie Rishwain, president, Ugg; Joel Heath, president, Teva -
30. Stuart Weitzman, 71
Executive Chairman; Stuart Weitzman
2011 Rank: 36
Global Push: Weitzman plans to open more than 15 branded doors in Asia within the next 12 months. Star Power: The designer tapped Brooklyn Decker, Julianne Hough, Nikki Reed, AnnaSophia Robb and Chloë Grace Moretz for his second Young Hollywood Cares Collection to benefit ovarian cancer research. He also teamed up with actor and Academy Award nominee James Franco for a short fashion film promoting the label. Launch Pad: A high-end, European-made label, called SW1, debuted for fall ’12. Power Players: Wayne Kulkin, vice chairman; Susan Duffy, chief marketing officer; Barbara Kreger, EVP -
31. Kevin Mansell, 59
Chairman, President, CEO; Kohl’s Corp.
2011 Rank: 32
Star Power: Kohl’s DesigNation program kicks off next month with a holiday collection from Narciso Rodriguez, followed by a Derek Lam line for spring. Good Company: Vera Wang expanded her partnership, bowing Princess Vera Wang, a collection of juniors’ shoes and apparel. Strategy Shift: The chain is moving to smaller-format stores to embrace more real estate options, particularly in urban areas. By the Numbers: Q2 profits plunged nearly 20 percent amid disappointing sales. Power Players: Donald Brennan, chief merchandising officer; Carol Baiocchi, SVP, DMM, footwear -
32. Mark Lee, 49
CEO; Barneys New York
2011 Rank: 33
Reinvention: With e-commerce the retailer’s fastest-growing channel, Barneys.com got a revamp. Updated: Not to be outdone by its department store rivals, the New York flagship unveiled a 22,000-sq.-ft. designer shoe floor. Wild Card: Perry Capital snapped up Barneys in a debt-for-equity swap, giving the struggling retailer greater financial flexibility. On Tap: The Beverly Hills, Calif., location will receive a facelift in the coming year. Power Players: Daniella Vitale, COO, senior EVP; Dennis Freedman, creative director; Tomoko Ogura, senior fashion director -
33. Gregg Steinhafel, 57
Chairman, President, CEO; Target Corp.
2011 Rank: 34
Milestone: The retail giant marked its 50th anniversary in 2012. On Display: A new collaboration program, The Shops, showcases products designed and curated by indie boutiques including Odin and Kirna Zabête. Heading North: Target’s bull’s-eye is on Canada, with up to 125 stores set to open there in 2013. Next Big Thing: A mega-partnership with Neiman Marcus will bring products from 24 top fashion designers to Target shelves in December. Power Players: Kathryn Tesija, EVP, merchandising, supply chain; Patricia Adams, SVP, merchandising, apparel, accessories; Karlyn Mattson, DMM, jewelry, accessories, shoes -
34. Mindy Grossman, 55
CEO; HSN Inc.
2011 Rank: 38
Double Down: HSN is hot on mobile commerce, as sales in the channel are on track to double this year. Acquisition: The company purchased children’s brand Chasing Fireflies under its Cornerstone division. Sales Chart: Revenue rose 6 percent in Q2, with footwear as its fastest-growing category. Star Power: Exclusive movie tie-ins and live music events upped the network’s entertainment factor. Power Players: Bill Brand, EVP, programming, marketing, business development; John Bosco, SVP, jewelry; Arthur Lewis, SVP, apparel, accessories; Lauren Wilner, fashion director -
35. Marc Jacobs, 49
Designer, Marc Jacobs; Creative Director, Louis Vuitton
2011 Rank: 31
C-Suite: Liz Fraser, formerly SVP and GM of Marc by Marc Jacobs accessories, will take over Carolyn Risoli’s role as president of Marc by Marc Jacobs. Risoli, who resigned, is serving as a consultant for the company. New Store: A Marc by Marc Jacobs shop opened at the Forum Shops in Las Vegas with exclusive merchandise and a custom slot machine filled with product. Open for Business: Bookmarc stores bowed in Paris and London, with plans to add Chicago and Tokyo. Power Player: Robert Duffy, president, Marc Jacobs -
36. Kenneth Cole, 58; Paul Blum, 52
Founder, Chairman, Chief Creative Officer; CEO; Kenneth Cole Productions Inc.
2011 Rank: 35
Big Bet: Cole took his namesake firm private to focus on turnaround efforts away from Wall Street. Makeover: Pulled from shelves two years ago, the revamped Kenneth Cole New York women’s line returned. Milestone: The company turned 30, marking the occasion with the launch of the higher-end Kenneth Cole Collection. Global Push: International business is forecast to double by 2015, with a slew of overseas store openings planned. C-Suite: Kobi Halperin is serving as consulting creative director following Ingo Wilts’ departure in June. Power Players: Chris Nakatani, president, wholesale; Carol Massoni, president, consumer direct -
37. Rick Darling, 59
President; LF USA
2011 Rank: 40
Launch Pad: The Jimlar Corp. division of LF inked a deal with Aerin Lauder for a spring ’13 footwear launch, as part of the Estée Lauder protegee’s much buzzed-about lifestyle label. Acquisitions: New licensing deals with Marchesa and Vena Cava grew the women’s contemporary category for the company, while Nautica and Geoffrey Beene deals expanded the firm’s presence in the men’s market. C-Suite: The company tapped former Saks Fifth Avenue VP Sunny Diego as SVP of merchandising in the men’s division. Power Players: Jim Tarica, co-president, footwear division; Larry Tarica, co-president, footwear division -
38. Nicholas Kirkwood, 32
Designer, Nicholas Kirkwood; Creative Director, Pollini
2011 Rank: 41
Hot New Store: The designer debuted his first U.S. store, in New York’s trendy Meatpacking neighborhood. Home Run: Kirkwood and Karl Lagerfeld collaborated on shoes for the Fendi runway show in Milan to much fanfare. Launch Pad: A men’s line is in the works, and Kirkwood is helping to support hot emerging name Sophia Webster. Secret Plans: In addition to a new e-commerce site that goes live in February, more retail locations are expected, with the West Coast, Middle East and Asia high on the list. Power Player: Christopher Suarez, business partner -
39. Bob Campbell, 75
Chairman, CEO; BBC International
2011 Rank: 43
Big Score: Campbell seized several opportunities in 2012, taking over Brown Shoe Co.’s children’s wholesale business and making bold moves with new kids’ stores in China. New Frontiers: BBC is focused on growing in Asia and Latin America, and continues to explore sourcing alternatives outside China. Upbeat On: Licenses with Marvel, Sesame Street and Hot Wheels are performing well. Down the Line: BBC is considering launching its own, wholly owned kids’ brand. Power Players: Donald Wilborn, president, CFO; Tracey McLeod, president, sales, marketing -
40. Pierre Hardy, 55
Designer; Pierre Hardy
2011 Rank: 39
Accessories: The designer debuted jewelry for spring ’12 under his eponymous label, starting with gold and black cuffs featuring his signature cube motif. Wholesale accounts include Colette Paris and Lane Crawford. In the Air: A collection of cases for fragrances was developed in collaboration with Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle. Hot List: Hardy created the much-buzzed-about, $1.9 million, gold-and-diamond miniature version of the Hermès Kelly bag with the fashion house, where he heads up jewelry and footwear design.
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01
Blake Nordstrom, 52; Pete Nordstrom, 50
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02
Phil Knight, 74; Mark Parker, 57
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03
Christian Louboutin, 49
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04
Ken Hicks, 59
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05
Terry Lundgren, 60
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06
Diane Sullivan, 57
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07
Wesley Card, 64; Richard Dickson, 43; Stefani Greenfield, 45
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08
Herbert Hainer, 58
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09
Steve Madden, 55; Ed Rosenfeld, 36
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10
Blake Krueger, 58
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11
Jeff Bezos, 48; Tony Hsieh, 38
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12
Manolo Blahnik, 69; George Malkemus, 58
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13
Vince Camuto, 76
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14
Jim Davis, 69; Rob DeMartini, 51
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15
Eric Wiseman, 56
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16
Robert Greenberg, 70; Michael Greenberg, 49
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17
Mike Duke, 62
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18
Karen Katz, 55
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19
Stephen Sadove, 61; Ron Frasch, 63
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20
Reinhard Mieck, 45
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21
Bob Dennis, 58
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22
Diego Della Valle, 58
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23
François-Henri Pinault, 50; Franz Koch, 33
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24
Giuseppe Zanotti, 55
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25
Neil Cole, 55
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26
Glenn Lyon, 62
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27
Michael MacDonald, 61; Debbie Ferrée, 59
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28
Miuccia Prada, 63
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29
Angel Martinez, 57
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30
Stuart Weitzman, 71
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31
Kevin Mansell, 59
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32
Mark Lee, 49
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33
Gregg Steinhafel, 57
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34
Mindy Grossman, 55
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35
Marc Jacobs, 49
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36
Kenneth Cole, 58; Paul Blum, 52
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37
Rick Darling, 59
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38
Nicholas Kirkwood, 32
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39
Bob Campbell, 75
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40
Pierre Hardy, 55
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41
Kevin Wulff, 61
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42
Jim Issler, 64
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43
Mike George, 51
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44
Lew Frankfort, 66; Reed Krakoff, 48
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45
Michael Kors, 53
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46
Aldo Bensadoun, 73
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47
Ron Johnson, 54
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48
Carol Meyrowitz, 58
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49
Peter Harris, 49
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50
Bob Goldman, 70
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51
Tarek Hassan, 42; Sam Hassan, 62
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52
Daniel Schwartz, 59
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53
Marc Fisher, 54
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54
R. Stephen Rubin, 74; Andy Rubin, 47
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55
Ralph Lauren, 73
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56
Massimo Ferragamo, 55; Vincent Ottomanelli, 46
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57
Charlotte Olympia Dellal, 31
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58
Blake Mycoskie, 36
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59
Danny Wasserman, 65
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60
Edward Stack, 57
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61
John Varvatos, 57
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62
Tim Belk, 57
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63
Millard “Mickey” Drexler, 68
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64
Kevin Plank, 40
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65
Bonnie Brooks, 59
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66
Isack Fadlon, 47
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67
Jack Silvera, 69
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68
Jim Salzano, 50
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69
Jules Schneider, 61
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70
Jill Layfield, 37
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71
Karl-Johan Persson, 37
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72
Tim Boyle, 63
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73
Jim Weber, 52
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74
Peter Hanig, 64
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75
Ezra Dabah, 59
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76
Mario Polegato, 60
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77
John McCarvel, 55
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78
William Dillard, 67
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79
Paul Jones, 51
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80
Joe Ouaknine, 59
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81
Mandy Cabot, 58
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82
Steven Nichols, 70
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83
Johann Rupert, 62; Natalie Massenet, 47
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84
Dennis Lazar, 64
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85
Marcia Kilgore, 44
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86
Tabitha Simmons
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87
Alexandre Birman, 35
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88
Mark Weber, 62
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89
Rick Cytrynbaum, 38
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90
Matt Joyce, 55
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91
Michael Katz, 61
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92
Glenn Murphy, 50
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93
Tom Florsheim Jr., 54; John Florsheim, 49
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94
Federico Marchetti, 43
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95
Gene Yoon, 66; Jon Epstein, 57
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96
Nick Robertson, 44
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97
Rebecca Minkoff, 31; Uri Minkoff, 37
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98
Pierre-André Senizergues, 49
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99
Donald Pliner, 69, Noel Hord, 65
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100
David Zaken, 58
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