“I wanted to have a day of Richard Chai contemporary world,” said Chai, pre-show, to explain his two-part runway presentation. The launch of his women’s line Richard Chai - Love came first, and then, after a 30-minute beer bash, the men’s showing; both collections are in that lower-priced market. But the pairing was apt for other reasons, too: Chai’s new Love was inspired by the success of his men’s line, and, for this first season at least, revolves around the world of chic boyfriend dressing. Chai gamely set that laid-back tone right with the first look, with Frida Gustavsson sporting bucket shorts and a rumpled balmacaan jacket tossed over a henley tank. What followed were ideas with elements borrowed-from-the-boys: slouchy Ts; cropped, hooded parkas, and utility jumpsuits abbreviated into playful rompers, all featuring casual rolled-up sleeves. But there was plenty of feminine counterpoint, too, albeit of a kind that was still rooted in a tomboyish ethos. Cases in point: the lightly ruffled jumpsuit and a lovely handkerchief skirt, cut from men’s shirting.

In what was only his second men’s presentation, Richard Chai again showed his impressive grasp of volume and youthful proportion. This time, he displayed them in light, distinctive fabrics such as an ivory windowpane-print cotton and a sheer fabric with opaque black stripes. The key silhouettes were wide-leg trousers paired with a fitted top, and pleated bucket shorts balanced by equally roomy jackets that came in many forms. Blazers were done in informal textiles evocative of workwear, so that nothing was precious. Undersize caps with the visors flipped up pushed the overall appearance into disconcertingly young territory. But youth was clearly the target, and Chai nailed it.