In his sophomore season, Prabal Gurung continued his fine way with lady-fied clothes, challenging himself to show how a woman can dress up without turning frivolous. He found the answer in his mother’s old Rive Gauche bottles, not only their bright blue-and-silver sheen which informed his palette, but also, by extension, Yves Saint Laurent’s provocative pilfering of men’s wear. Hence, the controlled drama of a white tuxedo with a single vertical lapel bow, low-slung trousers with ankle ties and a terrific tiered trench. Standing alongside Gurung’s dresses — some utterly lovely, such as romantic painted gazars and a great one-shoulder sac; others, a bit bow-happy — these suggested the designer’s capacity (not yet fully realized) to translate traditional tenants into modern polish.



