Sophistication is on the rise at Sophia Kokosalaki. Fabrics, mostly silk and chiffon, looked expensive and worked well with her signatures. Pleats were soft, and sculptural effects appeared as undulating curves around the gentle flounce of a skirt or sleeve. While that certainly bodes well for Kokosalaki’s commercial appeal, particularly in a silk trench and some simple minis and shifts, her proclivity for exotic effects does not. Reptilian lamés sloppily twisted into bodices and gold talisman adornments, which looked plucked from a pharaoh’s tomb, needed to be refined to fit in with the rest of her lineup.