The first look out of the gate at Max Mara was a simple, languid white jumpsuit — so on trend, right? But not the eccentric hairstyle, an updo straight out of a bad Eighties trucker flick, and the smoky eyebrow makeup, which completely distracted. OK, back to the clothes. While the house is known for its great tailoring and outerwear, this season the design team decided to expand beyond its classic repertoire, and not always successfully. There were, as ever, some good pieces like the swimwear and a rather cool suede jacket tossed over a knit top and shimmery boyshorts. And the gingham numbers were fine, just not worn head to toe. But the rest seemed out of character with the house: the blouse-blazer hybrids and the allover floral suits that were a bit too David Bowie-gone-Garden Party. And as for the glittery finale, it was everything seen in the first half, just covered with clear sequins.