A lot of fashion has come and gone over the past two decades, but one thing hasn’t changed a bit: Donna Karan still loves New York. She opened her 20th anniversary DKNY show with a video montage of city street scenes, and then proceeded with a lineup that looked slick, polished and rooted firmly in the Eighties. She delivered the mood sans the kitsch typically associated with that decade, save for the occasional Hammer pants sighting. Karan played it straight, focusing on the kind of appealing, controlled clothes that have created renewed energy for the label at retail. She loves dresses and went two ways, with bum-grabbing jerseys bloused at the hips and bustier frocks, their skirts rounded politely. Either way, she kept them short, in black, navy and a somewhat peculiar ikat while working in shots of vibrant color — a neon yellow strapless; an electric-blue mini with black straps. A series of tweedy separates delivered a sexy office-girl effect, and there were sports and utilitarian moments as well. Along the way Karan paid subtle homage to some old favorites including the boyfriend jacket and the versatile twill parka dress, shown both alone and layered. But for all the strong clothes, the collection felt surprisingly calm, lacking a sense of celebration. While Karan is to be lauded for not putting her audience through a tiresome retrospective, DKNY has provided some significant thrills over the years. For some reason she chose not to draw overt attention to them, save for a peculiar finale that saw a mass exodus of models wearing a handful of archival looks led down the runway by a passel of adorably pointless children.