Go low-key or go for broke? It’s an ongoing question for designers during tough economic times. Carolina Herrera stands firmly in the latter camp. “This is a special collection,” she said before her show. “Now that we are in so many difficult situations, women like to buy something special.”

Special, indeed, with Botticelli as its initial inspiration. But happily, Herrera didn’t go High Renaissance literal, instead pilfering the painter’s palette for vibrant persimmon, marigold and a rich, moody teal. She worked these into an unabashedly romantic lineup without sacrificing the adult sophistication her clients crave. The biggest news: ruffles, for day or evening in little touches or major cascades. They spilled abundantly down gowns both diaphanous and structured, bunched into pretty jabots and met in a saucy V-peplum on a curvy cocktail shaker. For a respite from ruffles, Herrera offered alternative embellishment in lavish embroideries and petal appliqués. Of course, even the most ardent frill-seeking ladies have days that call for a little less fluff. She thus reworked something as basic as a shirt and pants, showing the combo as an embroidered black-and-white silk shirt over roomy white cloque pants. Who says the classics can’t be special, too?