Salvatore Ferragamo is one of a slew of fashion houses looking to add muscle in the men’s department. The strategy makes sense given that Ferragamo’s masculine arm is already performing better than its women’s wear counterpart, according to ceo Michele Norsa. With that in mind, designer Massimiliano Giornetti sent out a strong spring collection that played on both classic Italian tailoring and subtle African references. Giornetti said his inspiration was “an elegant English gentleman who discovers the African continent at the turn of the century.” Yet there was nothing old-fashioned about the crimson double-breasted cardigan that opened the show, announcing a palette of rich browns and ochers reminiscent of scorching deserts. Giornetti injected a youthful element to the collection with slim double-breasted suits in fine wool or cotton gabardine. Chunky handmade sweaters – some in woven leather – riffed on basket weaving and were among knockout pieces. Giornetti swapped sandals for laced two-toned shoes – some in raffia - for a collection that felt both rich and lived-in.