Junya Watanabe summed up his spring collection with one word — “snob” — and perky variations of essentially one look: trim plaid jacket, crisp and preppy shirt, cropped or cuffed pants and upper-crust accessories, including ascots, pocket squares and small-brimmed hats. To the soothing melodies of Serge Gainsbourg, out strolled jackets — enough to outfit many a Scottish golf club — while a new collaboration with Mackintosh yielded beige trenchcoats or parkas in vivid blues and forest greens. Suppressing his penchant for tricky, transforming garments — save for the odd hood attached to blazers — Watanabe turned snobbery into an approachable and stylish collection.