The travels of Napoleon Bonaparte were the thread binding the exotic chapters of a cinematic Galliano show, held in a cavernous, graffiti-covered abandoned pool. Utility garb in desert hues met oriental vase prints. Belts and knotted shirts bound the waists, defining the silhouette. Looks were topped with long coats in historical officer’s cuts and details. Some black versions were overlaid with layers of chiffon that billowed in their wake. Though that may not sound masculine, it was a fine example of Western militarism meeting the languid sensuality associated with the Orient. For the requisite underwear portion of the show, Galliano conjured young Sicilian men draped in leopard and gold leaf. Looking to Arabia, a mix of suiting, denim and suede in sandy shades blew by. In fact, there was a surprising amount of tailored clothing throughout the costume drama, especially for evening, where there were tuxedos, smoking jackets and brocades fit for an emperor.




