The opening of the show looked fresh in its bold, bright simplicity. There were tailored jersey suits and peacoats, some with eye-catching, contrasting lapels, and trim, sleek trousers with a racing stripe on the inside of the legs. The cool minimalism was often overshadowed by cross-dressing (male tube tops, anyone?) and quirky experiments with transparency — a sheer overlay on a striped suit, clear plastic insets in a dark suit and printed shirts overlaid with mesh panels. More promising and easy to like: a new collaboration with Levi’s that produced some fun versions of denim classics with bright red stitching. A pair of jeans was special enough without the matching bondage straps, but as with most things Gaultier, there’s no such thing as too much.