After taking the ideas of protection and coverage to extremes in recent seasons, Duckie Brown’s Daniel Silver and Steven Cox now look to explore the opposites: exposure and vulnerability. The designers also left behind their jocular flourishes in favor of a grown-up and sophisticated attitude. Gauzy T-shirts and sheer silk shirts, printed with refreshing vertical stripes and oversize plaids, lent a leisurely sensuality to the airy and refined collection. Light tweeds and flaxen fabrics, made into relaxed blazers and safari jackets, served as the counterpoint to the gossamer tops, while frontal pleating and angled side seams pumped volume into chic shorts.

Skimpy swimsuits — flimsy, ruched and high waisted — were obviously intended to provoke, but even those were on key with the overall island-holiday tone. The only downside to the designers’ light touch was it left the show a bit undermerchandised.