Since his appointment two years ago, Dior Homme designer Kris Van Assche has wrestled with the suit, which is the house’s signature. For spring, he delivered his best interpretation yet with an ultralight collection that was elegant, directional and recognizably Dior. First, Van Assche introduced a new Dior Homme trouser — roomy, pleated and tapered at the ankle. Above the waist, he played with transparency and layering, leaving two-button cotton jackets unlined to reveal their construction and the raw-edge shirts and waistcoats underneath. An unlined silk raincoat, which floated over a Japanese cotton jacket with delicate raw edges, was a standout. Van Assche mixed sartorial savoir faire with more street-inspired elements in just the right doses, and with plenty of confidence. Sleeveless jackets, for example, were edgy and soigné, while leather lapels on formalwear were striking.