Italo Zucchelli spies a need for more transparency in modern life, and he announced the concept with his first look: a translucent, weightless, black nylon parka over a black two-piece wet suit. Sticking at first to a neutral spectrum, he spun more sheer nylons, three-dimensional mesh and paper-thin leathers — perforated to the point of sheerness — into classic tailored clothing as well as athletic-inspired sportswear such as a mesh varsity jacket and a sheer leather polo shirt. Fluffy pompadours, cap sleeves cut to show off the deltoids, and high-waist trousers injected an “American Graffiti” vibe, punctuated by the classic Mustang convertible parked at the door.

 

The brand is always crafting an association with youthful rebellion, whether of the moment or historic. Playing with a house icon, Zucchelli revamped blue jeans by using the reverse side of the denim. Then came a flood of head-to-toe turquoise and tangerine looks, which felt like an attempt to replicate the reaction his shocking colors elicited a year ago. Still, you have to hand it to him for putting his unmistakable handwriting on a brand so loaded with associations.